Vehicle, Equipment, Spares and Tools

Rule

Vehicle

The choice of vehicle for an overland trip is a compromise, involving budget, vehicle characteristics and personal preferences. A number of books address the topic(eg Jack Jackson's "The Off-Road Four Wheel Drive Book"; Brydon's "Africa Overland"; Bob Swain and Paula Snyder's "Africa by Road") and the discussion following is a personal view.

In Africa the Landrover stills reigns. For the more arduous stretches, I would still feel more comfortable in a Series III Landrover with a 2.25 normally aspirated diesel engine than in a modern turbo charged version. The Series III is tried and tested in Africa and bush mechanics know how to repair it and where to get the bits. Turbos do not like ingesting dust and when they go wrong are difficult to repair. Similar comments apply to other luxeries, such as power steering, which come as standard on newer vehciles. That said, a Series III with a top speed of 50 mph (80kph) is tedious on the straight and well maintained roads of Southern Africa.

The foregoing assumes the use of a 4WD vehicle. In practice there are very few places where 4WD is necessary, with correct choice of route and at the best time of year, 2WD will get you most places. 4WD allows you to go 'off the beaten track'. In my crossing of Africa, it was only the stretch through Zaire, that would have defeated a determined driver in a 2WD saloon. I used 4WD, to get into the Sahara in Mauritania, to cross Zaire, to go into game parks in Kenya and Tanzania (including the crater) and to visit Kaokoland in Namibia.

The picture above is of my Landrover at the start of the trip. It is a Series III Landrover, left hand drive and released for sale in 1985, registration B710 BPP. 1985 is very late for a Series III, and it must have been one of the last manufactured. It was in very good condition and in particular the chassis was spotless. This was due to it spending the first six years of its life in Cameroon, where salt from road grit or the sea had never got to the chassis. Chassis corrosion is the weak point when buying a Series III in Europe for use in Africa. Any Series III is now (in 1998) at least 13 years old and if used regularly, without proper maintenance, the chassis will have weakened. Signs of plating or bad corrosion of the chassis foretell expensive repairs in Africa.

Landrovers come in many different configurations, such as Long Wheel Base (LWB), Short Wheel Base (SWB), Hard Top, Safari, Ambulance etc. You will need a LWB to give the storage capacity. The choice of body type is then really between the Hard Top or the Safari. The Hard Top is more of a van, with two doors and the back of the vehicle totally enclosed. The Safari is a four door version, with windows all round. The Hard Top is more secure but has restricted visibility. The bodywork of the Hard Top is also stronger and a roof rack can carry a higher load (although Landrover do not approve). B710 is a LWB Safari chosen because I expected to have up to four people on board. Doing the trip again, I would probably take a Hard Top but add extra side windows.

Vehicle Preparation

Prior to departure, there was a list of changes and repairs to be made to B710. Repairs consisted of replacing a synchromesh cone in the gearbox and the clutch plate. Preventive maintenance was limited to replacing the timing belt. One concern I had was the age of the engine, as the vehicle had been changed from petrol to diesel, the history of the engine was unknown. I was advised that it would do - it did, but only just. Adaptations of the vehicle consisted of the following
Heavy Duty Springs.The use of these was questionable, as they pass on more stress to the chassis. In my case the chassis was strong enough to take it, in Mike's vehicle the chassis cracked. The heavy use of spring bushes was also probably due to these uprated springs.
Long range tanks under front seats.The extra range these tanks provided was extremely welcome, but an unexpected problem was that they cut down the airflow under the vehicle, the confined engine heat resulted in the foot wells being extremely hot.
Uprated alternator and extra battery with split charge system.The split charge system that was fitted was a simple relay, which was open when the engine was running. This did not preserve the main battery charge and allowed the use of the fridge to deplete the main battery.

Equipment

Vehicle Equipment

This is the equipment which fixed directly to the vehicle. Most can be seen in the picture above.
Five Michelin XZY TyresThese were bought new and proved to be worth the money (GBP150.00 each). I had one puncture in the whole trip, and by the end there was still over half the tread remaining. These tyres were twelve ply and extremely tough, which meant if you did need to repair a puncture it was difficult job.
Brownchurch Roof rack.A perfect piece of equipment that gave no problems and withstood the trip. Covered with marine plywood it provided a sleeping and viewing platform. Weight on the rack should be minimised and by the end I had stressed and cracked the bulkhead, by having to much equipment on the roof.
Sand LaddersAgain from Brownchurch these saw good service in the Sahara, but were hardly used thereafter. In use I had one concern as their length meant that when driven over they rose and hit the underseat tanks - very near to the drain plug.
Light guardsThe front guards are probably worthwhile, but I struggle to see when the rear guards are needed.
Jerry Cans on front bumperThis is a convenient way to carry diesel (not petrol!), although fixing the jerries was not easy.
Work Light I had one flood fitted to the rear, which was very useful as an extra reversing light and for lighting the cooking area in camp. I would adopt a more flexible system, or have more lights, if going again.
Things I did not add were Free Wheel Hubs, oil cooler and guards for the front diff. Keep things simple, FWH hubs are just something extra to go wrong, cooling the engine oil is fine but the other oils are still hot and careful driving will avoid the need for under vehicle guards. I also didn't fit any extra driving lights, as we agreed that driving at night in Africa is dangerous. It is. It is very difficult to see dangers in the road. Despite this, we still ended up driving at night on a number of occasions and extra lights would have helped.

There were also additional things I would have loved to take, but could not afford. For example, handheld GPS units were just coming onto the market, but at GBP 1000 they were too expensive. The sun is still a very useful compass and is visible most of the time. I regretted not fixing extra gauges as the warning lights for charging and oil pressure only tell you that something is wrong. Gauges would have shown that a problem was starting, mind you that would just have been more to worry about.

Expedition Equipment

The following is the stuff I considered necessary to make a trip through Africa:
Jerry CansI took six fuel (metal) jerries, two fixed to the front bumper. To keep deisel out of the vehicle, the cans were stored on the roofrack, but were transferred as soon as the main tank was depleted.
Water jerry cansI took eight expecting to cross Algeria. This was more than necessary for the route followed, but allowed a system of keeping purified and other water separated. Ex-army dark plastic are much better that campshop clear plastic carries.
Water purificationI used the system from Brownchurch, which worked but keeping the filter clean and getting a reasonable flow rate was tiresome. However no-one got an infection which could be blamed on water quality.
Table and ChairsGood sturdy tables and chairs add a little luxury. The table was generally used for food preparation and loosing it would have caused great inconvienence. The chairs and extra chairs always allowed a social group to form.
Hi Lift jackAn essential. I took a five ft jack, but a four foot jack is sufficient.
ShovelsEssental for digging out if (when) you get bogged. Short handled are fine.
Tow ropesI took a tow rope and a KERR (Kinetic Energy Recovery Rope), both were used. The KERR more from fun than need - but ensure the fittings you are using for towing can take the strain.
Wire ropeA five metre section of wire rope is useful for securing items. We'd run the rope through tables and chairs last thing at night and they'd still be there in the morning.
Coleman stoveWhenever possible we'd use campfires, but a stove is necessary for those times when firewood is in short supply. The Coleman suffered from the dirty fuel and clogged up, but it did survive the trip.
FridgeI got a 2nd hand one cheap, it never really kept up, but that was partly due to it being 24V running off 12V. A fridge is not necessary.
Cash BoxThere are plenty of places to hide money in a Landrover, I'd generally keep $100 or so in the boss of the steering wheel - for bribes if really necessary. The main secure box was bolted to the floor and well disguised. Items like carnet and passports, which were required often were generally in the cuddy box (also locked).
Cooking GrateHaving been told to get a good stove (the Coleman), I had expected to use it most of the time. In reality we used campfires for most of the trip. It was only in Benin, that we eventually got a decent cooking grate. It was just a piece of grid used for re-inforced concrete, but it made life so much easier.
MapsTo do a Trans-Africa you only need two maps, Michelin map 953 and 955 (954 and 955 if you follow Cairo to the Cape). These maps may seem to cover a lot of ground, but they include all the detail you need, indicating all the main roads and their conditions. If you intend to add some side trips, such as my trips in the Sahara and the Kaokaland, then specialist maps for those areas (and a GPS) will be useful.
One item I didn't take was a winch. An electric winch is power hungry and not reliable enough (in my experience). A hand winch, such as Tirfor, would have been useful. Rob and Simon had a hand winch which was used for hoisting engines.

These items were generally stored in the vehicle for security. The table and chairs went on the roof rack as they were quite bulky, the other items went in large metal boxes in the back of the Landrover. These boxes were dust proof, but I didn't have enough boxes to store everything. Anything that wasn't in a dust proof box got ruined. Dust is everywhere in Africa and it penetrates into all areas making a lovely grinding paste. Plastic boxes and the like get the dust engrained into them. Best to get a number of large boxes and ensure everything is stored in them.

Personal Equipment

If you read Brydon's book, he provides a list of clothing to take. I over packed comapred to that list, partly because I left Scotland in October in a Landrover with no heater. On departure I was wearing a T shirt, a shirt, a Guernsey sweater, a down waistcoat and a fleece. I was to wear the full set again on a few occassions, notably in the Rwenzoris and on Mt Kenya. Brydon's list assumes you are staying with the vehicle and not making and side trips. Apart from clothing other personal equipment included:
Sleeping BagA basic synthetic bag with a three season rating, which could be washed when necessary
Lightweight tentThe nylon two man tent I already had. Ideally would have had a larger tent with better ventilation. Roof top tents are useful as they give security and are easy to set up. They have the disadvantage that if you are settled in a place, you cannot leave the tent and go off for a drive. Similarly if you want to go for a trek, you still need another tent. Finally, a self standing tent is useful as getting pegs into the ground can be extremely difficult. In Marrakech we bought the local tent pegs, half inch diameter steel rods of convenient length. and binned the lightweight treking pegs we had.
Mosquito netTreated with permethrin, this was used much more often than the tent.
Sleeping MatI started off with a cheap self inflating mat. To this I added a closed cell mat in the Sahel and a beach mat in Ghana. The closed cell mat protected the inflated mat from thorns and the beach mat established a clean area for my be roll. The bed roll was laid out next to the vehicle and the mosquito net tied to the roof rack was rigged over it. This was all bulky to store, but it was light so could be thrown in anywhere in the vehicle.
Water bottleA private bottle cuts down the risk of cross infection.

Rule

Spares

The list of spares was constructed using our own experience and suggested lists in various books. Running in convoy allowed us to reduce the spare slightly, for example by only carrying one water pump and one spare tyre each. My approach was to prepare the vehicle as well as possible and only make repairs on route if absolutely necessary. In hind sight there were repairs which I should have made earlier (such as replacement of the track rod ends and tightening the gear box rear fitting), but these problems were not serious at the time. My concern was not to make a minor problem serious. Although some items in the following list were never used, it would be foolhardy to start without them. Also as part of the preparation, all rubber based items had been replaced, so it was less likely that brake cylinder seals would fail. One item we missed in this approach was the clutch flexible hose and as we found there is no easy way to botch this item.

Finally, the storage of the spares is important to ensure they are useable when you need them. Our spares were provided just as we were leaving and quickly stored. They were never properly labelled and by the time they were needed, it was difficult to identify what was what. Also some items were damaged. The Girls found their cylinder head gasket was u/s when needed as it hadn't been stored flat and dry. I found my spare tubes had been worn through by the edges of the cardboard box they came in. Contamination of spares by dust or leakage from other areas (water for some, a damaged grease can for me) was a problem most of us encountered.

Item

Quantity

Comment

Item

Quantity

Comment

Hub oil seals

12

Never used

Flange Gaskets

12

Never used

Decoke Gasket set

2

Used on return

Differential Oil Seal

2

Never used

Gearbox Oil seal

2

Never used

Main leaf (front)

2

Never used

Main leaf (rear)

2

Never used

U Bolts and nuts

2

Used when replacing bushes

Spring bushes

8

Ghana, Zaire, Zimbabwe

Shock bushes and pins

8

Never used

Rear shocks

2

Never used

Front shocks

1

Never used

Fuel lift pump

1

Never used

Lift pump repair kit

1

Never used

Fan belts

6

Cote D'Ivoire (2) Nigeria, Zaire, Botswana

Water pump

1

Dakhla

Radiator hose set

2

Never used

Heater hose set

1

N/A

Inner wheel bearings

4

1 set given to Girls

Outer wheel bearings

4

1 set given to Girls

Rear wheel cylinders

1 (each design)

Never used

Front wheel cylinders

1 (each design)

Never used

Brake cyl repair kit

4

Never used

Clutch plate assembly

1

Never used

Clutch cylinder repair lit

4

Never used

LHD speedo cable

1

Given to Girls

Throttle cable

1

Used by Mike (Ghana)

Valve spring

2

Never used

Exhaust valve

2

Never used

Inlet valve

1

Never used

Starter motor

1 (recon)

Never used

Starter motor brsuh set

2

Never used

Bulb set

2

Brake bulbs all used

Tube valves

8

 

Tyre tubes

8

1 used in Bamako, 1 in Etosha

Main fuel filter

12

Replaced approx every two weeks

In-line fuel filter

12

N/A

Heater plugs

2

1 used in Cape Town

Injector and sealing ring

2

Mike used all.

Injector pipe set

1

Never used

Exhaust repair kit

1

Never used

Engine oil

10 litres

Consumable

Gearbox oil

10 litres

Consumable

Brake fluid

2 * 1.5 litres

Consumable

Bearing grease

2 * 500 ml

Consumable

Fuel pipe

1 m

 

Fuses

lots

Lots used

Track rod ends

2

Never used

Wiper blades

4

Never used

Oil filters

12

 

Radiator cap

1

Broke in Kenya - didn't replace

Thermostat

1

Silly item

Shackle bolts

6

 

Flexible brake hose

2

Never used

Rule

Tools

The guidelines for taking tools are to only take what you can use and to ensure that the tools you take are the right ones for the job. My 1985 Landrover was a basic Series III with a few bits of Defender. As a result I had a mix of AF and metric nuts and bolts. The tools were also those required to keep the vehicle running - specialist repair tools were not carried. The soldering iron was an item carried by no-one else and was often borrowed, similarly I would borrow useful tools from others when found the need.

Spanners

   

AF 5/32 Combination

AF 3/16 Combination

AF 15/64 Combination

AF 7/32 Combination

AF 1/4 Combination

AF 9/32 Combination

AF 5/16 Combination

AF 11/32 Combination

AF 3/8 Combination

AF 7/16 Combination

AF 1/2 Combination * 2

AF 9/16 Combination * 2

AF 5/8 Combination * 2

AF 11/16 Combination * 2

AF 7/16 Combination

AF 13/16 Combination

AF 1" Combination

   

8 mm Combination

10 * 11 Open

10 * 11 Ring

14 * 15 Ring

16 * 17 Ring

18 * 19 Ring

  

Sockets

   

AF 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16, 7/8, 15/16

MM Socket Set

  

Screwdrivers

   

1 set precision

2 medium Philips

1 set right angled

1 Small philips

1 large flat

1 chunky philips

1 Medium flat

1 Chunky flat

1 Small

   

Tool Roll containing

   

Molegrips

Long nosed pliers

Wire cutters (small)

Circlip pliers

Adjustable 200 mm gape stilson

Pliers

  

Assorted

   

Torque wrench

3 cold chisels

1 Impact driver

1 Stanley knive plus blades

1 wire brush

2 metal files

1 centre punch

1 hand rivet gun

1 set feeler gauges

1 large hacksaw plus blades

1 small hacksaw plus blades

1 bowsaw

1 machette

2 tyre levers

1 12V soldering iron

2 Hand drill and drills

1 crowbar

1 small club hammer

1" paint brush 
Not in the list above, but very useful was a set of small spanners. Really I only need one, which was the right size for the distributor pump bleed screws. The fuel filters were changed regularly and each time the bleed screws had to be opened to let the air out of the system. This was a routine job, as was replacing fan belts and the necessary tools for each job were kept ready to hand. Spanners that were never used slowly migrated to the bottom of the tool box.

Rule

Medical Kit

The following was the basics of the medical kit we carried. The kit was supplied by the Nomad Pharmacy in London. In all cases the drugs were only to be used after medical advice. In practice the kit was rarely used and then for minor wounds. A number of the medicines listed are prescription only. No indication is given of the indended use of the items as the list is provided for information only.

Analgesics, Antibiotics, Anti-Infective, General Medical

50 paracetamol tabs 50 soluble aspirin 20 dihydrocodeine tabs 24 co-codamol tabs
12 ibuprofen tabs 30 metronidazole tabs 40 co-trimoxazole tabs 6 mebendazole tabs
50 quinine tabs 10 fansidar tabs 2*21 augmentin 12*2 halofantrine tabs
12 loperamide caps 40 dioralyte tabs 20 senokot tabs 10 prochlorazine tabs
10 dequadine throat loz 10 diazepam 20 asilone tabs 30 chlorpheniramine
15 cinnarizine tabs 1 toothache tincture 1 electrolyte spoon  

Ears, Nose, Throat

1 otrivine nose spray 1 otosporin ear drops 2 chloramphenicol eye oint 5 normasol sachets
1 eye bath 20 cotton buds 5 amethocaine minims 1 eye pad BPC no 16

Sterile Equipment

2 sutures 2 dental needles 5 green needles 5 blue needles
5 orange needles 6 venflon needles 5 2ml syringes 5 10ml syringes
2 disposable scalpels 2 steristrips 2 butterfly needles 10 alcohol wipes

Creams and Powders

1 15gm hydrocortisone cream 1 15gm micanzole cream 1 20gm micanzole powder 5 steripods
1 bogela gel 1 15gm cicatrin powder 2 50gm lacto calamine cream 1 videne powder
1 blisteze 1 20gm magnesium sulphate paste    

First Aid

5 melolin dressings 5cm 5 melolin dressings 10cm 2 wound dressings BPC 15 1 triangular bandage
1 zinc oxide tape 5cm 2 gauze swab packs 1 cotton wool 25gm 2 bactigras 10cm
1 thermometer 1 micropore tape 2.5cm 1 zinc oxide tape 2.5cm 3 1m fabric strip plaster
5 lancets 1 new skin 2 25ml iodine tinct  

Rule

Documents

One final item is the documentation required to such a trip.

Personally, each person requires a valid passport and a vacination certificate. Details of vacinations required change and can be obtained from any doctor. A passport should have validity for at least six months beyond the end of the trip and enough free pages for the visas and entry stamps you are going to accrue. Getting a new passport is not a bad idea. Memorise the number as you will be asked for it any number of times.

For the vehicle you will require a carnet, which is essentially a passport for the vehicle. Carnets are available from the motoring organisations (AA and RAC in the UK) and cost quite a lot, depending on the value of the vehicle. Also for the veicle you will need international driving permit (for each driver), an international certificate for motor vehicles and a letter of authority.

Last Changed 25th August 1998 (Some new comments)