AREN'T ORCHIDS HARD TO GROW?
Orchids aren't the delicate, hard to grow plants some people think they are. They are the largest group of plants in the world, contrary to the notion of them as exotic imports. Like other houseplants, orchids can be grown successfully if their basic needs are met. These basic needs don't call for a greenhouse. Most orchids can be raised as houseplants. If you're attentive enough to raise other houseplants, orchids should be simple. You can expect to find something you can grow, simply because orchids have adapted to survive in most areas as "wild" plants. This allows you a wide range of conditions that will do for growing various orchids. All you have to do is match a plants needs with what conditions you can provide. The following are very basic guidelines for growing orchids.
This is THE important factor to get right to successfully raise and bloom orchids. Correct light is important for proper plant growth. You can usually judge how much light an orchid needs by watching the leaves. You want the leaves to be a light grass green. In correct light, some plants will produce a pigment that resemble plum colored freckles or suntan. This shows that the plant has as much light as it can stand and is trying to protect itself from burning. This is an almost ideal situation for good blooming. See the individual culture sections for more detail on light needs.
If the leaves become very yellow, move the plant to more shade. Too intense a light or moving a plant from heavy shade to intense light can cause sun scalding. This is indicated by good sized bleached looking spots that turn black, crispy, and dry, looking charred.
If the leaves become dark emerald green, move the plant to more light. This coloration shows that the plant wants more light to grow well. The plant will live indefinitely under lower than desirable light conditions, but it generally won't bloom.
Watering is the OTHER important thing to get right. Most orchids are epiphytic. They grow ON trees or other plants, and they get moisture from the air. Nutrients are obtained from rain carrying decaying matter over the roots. This means that they NEVER stand in water in nature. The plants should NEVER be allowed to stand in water in your home. Orchids plants must be watered somewhat differently from most plants. How much and how often depends on several things:
Most in-home temperatures will be acceptable for growing orchids. They are comfortable where you are. Between 55F and 80F is best. Temperature extremes should be avoided, but can be survived readily. The plants can live after temperatures in the 30'sF, as long as no frost forms on the plant. 100F is survivable if there's air movement. Watch the humidity at extreme temperatures.
In their native environment nearly all plants are exposed to constant breezes. Orchids are no exceptions. Moving air will help them. It will also cut down on disease problems, either in a greenhouse or a living room. Good air movement prevents cold or hot spots, which can make it more difficult for you to grow the plant well. A small fan will quickly pay for itself by giving you better growing conditions.
If you have adequate humidity to raise other houseplants, you have enough to raise orchids. If humidity is a problem for your other plants, then it will be a concern for you in raising orchids. No expensive equipment is necessary to provide more humidity for your orchid. Any tray large enough to hold your plants will do. Fill the tray with gravel or place a rack across the tray. Next, put water in the tray. Be sure the plants aren't sitting in the water. The evaporating water will help the plants thrive in a dry environment. NEVER place orchids in standing water.
Most orchids are epiphytes, THEY WILL NOT GROW IN GARDEN POTTING SOIL!! They are air plants. The roots need to dry slightly between waterings. Garden soil won't allow this. The main function of media are to provide support. Anything that does this and allows air passage will do. Common media are: Pro-Mix BX, Peat Moss, New Zealand Sphagnum Moss, Fir Bark Chips, Redwood Bark Chips, Osmunda Fiber, Tree Fern Fiber, Coconut Fiber, Sifted Perlite, Granular Charcoal, Expanded Clay, Cork and others.
The size of the media affects its water retention character. Small chips of a medium stay more moist than large chunks of the same medium. These media dry at different rates. The first ones listed stay the most moist, the latter tend to stay drier. If you're prone to overwater, think about using the drier media. If you prefer to water less, use the moister media. Many people combine media to suit their watering habits and preferences.
No plant will live on air and water alone. Most orchid potting media provide support only, and have little or no food value. When the plants are in bark they need a high nitrogen food (30-10-10 ETC.). Plants in most other media need a balanced food (18-18-18 ETC.). Use a water soluble fertilizer at the dilutions recommended on the label. Plants in lower light need less fertilizer or the tips of leaves start to shrivel. Flush the pots with plain water occasionally to prevent deadly salt buildup.
Many orchids aren't heavy feeders, so feeding every couple of weeks is enough. They have an indefinite life span, so fertilizer isn't critical as it is with an annual. One months missed fertilizer won't stop blooming or mortally wound a plant that can live a century or more, given good care. Proper light is more important for good blooming than a rigorous fertilizer regimen.
These are the perfect plants for permanent indoor growing. Natural light in a sunny East or South window, a bay window, sun porch, or bright plant room is usually adequate. They like bright INDIRECT light. Harsh South or West windows may be too bright and hot. Simply, place sheers or another plant between them and the light source when the light is too intense for these plants. Watch the leaf color for clues about how your growing area rates with these plants.
Phalaenopsis plants like to stay evenly moist. Plastic pots seem to work better for these plants. They won't tolerate going extremely dry, as they don't have pseudobulbs. New Zealand sphagnum works well as a medium for these plants. We grow Phalaenopsis in 'Pro-Mix BX'. This media stays damp. An average 6" plastic pot needs watering on about a weekly basis, NO MORE. Watch the roots to make sure they stay firm and white. If you like to wet your plants, you should repot them into a dryer media immediately.
The average home has the preferred temperature for these plants. Days near 80F. Nights above 55F. The cooler nights experienced in autumn, plus shorter days starts the bloom spikes in Phalaenopsis plants. You can set spikes in the house because the window areas are cooler at night and warmer in the day than other areas of the house, so you still get the temperature drop they want.
The bloom spike takes 90-120 days to bloom from the time you see it emerge from the plant. They can bloom over long periods of time on a large plant. The spike can be cut to the base when blooming tapers off and you find the stem unsightly. Many people cut the stem to the 1st or 2nd bract on the stem. This can allow the plant to rebloom from an existing spike, so it's back in bloom sooner. There's no harm in encouraging lateral blooming, but they tend to be smaller blooms. We prefer to remove the spike completely, so the plant can focus energy on a strong new spike.
This group of plants are best suited for being placed outside in the warm seasons. They winter over adequately in the house, but need the extra boost of light that they'd get outside. They are no more difficult to deal with than other plants you toss outside for the summer. If you have a place under a tree, covered patio or the eaves of your house that you put houseplants without damage these orchids would do well there. Some people have growing areas with enough light to keep these plants inside permanently. However, without exceptional sunlight or a greenhouse that's unlikely to get you blooms. When outside, light shade during the middle of the day might be needed. Full morning sun is very good. Full afternoon sun may be too hot. Watch the leaf color for clues about how your growing area rates with these plants. If you have some mature plants of this group that refuse to bloom, try getting them to more light.
This group of plants like to go almost dry between waterings. Clay pots work well for this group of plants. We grow them in the following mixture: 2 parts granular charcoal, 2 parts sifted perlite, 1 part Metro-Mix 200 sterile potting media. This mixture dries at a rate that has us watering an average 6" clay pot once a week and NO MORE. Watch the roots to make sure they stay firm and white
They can be outside as long as the night temperature is above 45F. We've had cattleyas survive 33F, but growth was slowed. Most in home temperatures are fine for the winter.
These plants generally bloom on the newer growths. Some plants are sporadic blooming and bloom as each new growth comes up and matures. Others are seasonal and bloom on all the growths generated during the year at one time. This depends on the plants parents. Be sure to ask about this factor when buying them.
Orchid roots usually creep over the edge of the pot before the body of the plant makes it to the edge of the pot. This is NOT A SIGNAL to repot. Repotting is only necessary when the body of the plant has grown over the pot or the media breaks down and won't allow the roots to dry between waterings. Plants usually outgrows the pot before the media starts staying soggy.
It's best to repot when you see signs of new growth. These steps are general and could vary slightly, depending on the media you use:
Enjoy these wonderful plants, without fear. Despite rumors of exacting care needed of these plants, they're no harder to deal with than other houseplants. Trial and error may be called for to find plants that grow like weeds in your environment, that can be fun as well. We hope you get off to a happy start down the garden path into the world of orchids. If you need help with any orchid related matter, please give us a call. We're glad to help you get the most pleasure out of your orchids. Mother Nature's Crown Jewels.
LIGHT
WATERING
No hard rule for watering can be stated. Some homes are drier than others. Small pots dry out faster than large pots. Some plants prefer more water than others. Watch the plants, they let you know when they need water.
The roots will tell you if you have good watering habits. They're white, firm, and fleshy with green tips in healthy plants. Overwatered plants have few good roots, and many soggy, mushy, brown, dead ones. They set their own schedule. Most tolerate being dryer better than staying soggy. When you water, LET THE WATER RUN THROUGH THE MEDIA.
TEMPERATURE
AIR MOVEMENT
HUMIDITY
POTTING MEDIA
FERTILIZING
PHALAENOPSIS CARE
CATTLEYA, DENDROBIUM, and ONCIDIUM CARE
REPOTTING
RELAX and Enjoy Your Orchids
