Along the Northern Tier of Pennsylvania lies a popular hunting destination often called God's Country. This is Potter County, a land of endless forests and small towns. At the moment, it is undergoing a big population boom, particularly in the Coudersport area. This is due primarily to Adelphia Cable. However, it is still a small town area.
At one time, Potter Country was almost entirely logged over. Pictures from that time show endless, totally barren hillsides. Now, of course, the trees have grown back. In fact, they are a tourist attraction in neighboring Tioga County. Now, logging is again a major industry, but logging companies have realized that cutting down all the trees is not good for business. Now they're more careful. They still do clearcuts, which are actually good things, but they do them intelligently so that the forest recovers in a reasonable amount of time.
It may sound odd to say, but one way that Potter County has been fortunate is that it has not historically seen a lot of money. This is good because it has scared away large commercial chains, preserving the wonderful small town atmosphere. Also, due to lack of money, the area really hasn't changed much over the years.
Now, however, with the growth of Adelphia Cable, we're seeing a lot of growth and changes. The large commercial chains are moving in, and we're seeing a culture shift in the county. Nevertheless, most of the towns are still the traditional, pleasant small towns we all love.
The principal towns in Potter County are Austin, Coudersport, Galeton, Shinglehouse, and Ulysses. Coudersport is the county seat. Since Coudersport is my hometown, I'll focus on it.
Coudersport is a traditional small town. It's not a beautiful tourist attraction, but it's attractive. After all, real people live and work there. Coudersport is not putting on a show for the outside world. The Main Street is lined with 19th century buildings, and the stores in them are mostly locally owned. There is a one-screen movie theater (the movies aren't always current, but that's life). Beside the movie theater is the old elementary school, now home to Adelphia Cable. The Courthouse and jail are also conveniently located nearby.
Kaye's Hometown Restaurant formerly Jim and Hilda's
I've been going to this restaurant for years. It's a long, narrow place with kind of a diner feel. The people (and customers) are friendly. People will talk to each other, even if the person they're talking to is on the other side of the building. This actually just enhances the friendly feeling.
It was opened in the 1960's by Jim and Hilda (and you wondered where the original name came from). In 1998 it was sold and became Kaye's. Some changes were made -- the walls were painted, new pictures were hung, and the new owners have played up the hometown feel (not too much, so it's not annoying). The food is the same (good), and the prices are reasonable. I do have one criticism: they replaced the original cash register (from 1960) with a modern electric cash register.
Fredrick's True Value Hardware
You can find anything here. The store isn't beautiful, but having it is almost like having a department store. The inside is a maze, created as additions were put on over the years in various directions. It is full of just about everything you could possibly need. Just when you think you've run out of store, there's a doorway leading to more. No one is sure exactly where it ends (or if it ends). If that's not enough, there's even an upstairs.
The staff are very helpful. They'll help you find anything, advise you on what's the best to buy for your needs, and, since they probably know you (or think they do), will engage you in conversation. If you get lost, don't worry. Just follow the yellow feet painted on the floor.
The Courthouse and the Jail
The Potter County courthouse is an elderly building (and showing its age). The ceilings are very high and there isn't nearly enough room for all the offices the state wants the County to have. Outside you can see the enormous windows and the clock tower. The clock is one of the few wooden clocks in the country still operating (never updated due to lack of money, now a fun thing to have!). On top of the tower should be standing one of the few unflindfolded lady-justices (a statue). Unfortunately, a few lightening strikes (and a shotgun blast -- no one can explain it) have worked their magic, so she is currently in Erie undergoing surgery.
Almost directly across the road is the jail. It is another old building and, until recently, was considered one of the worst jails in the state. It was terribly overcrowded with ancient facilities. However, it was recently renovated and is pretty comfortable (for a jail) and a lot harder to escape from. Have you ever heard of people escaping with sheets tied together? It happened here. Anyway, outside, it's a stone building and fairly attractive, in a jail kind of way.
Fox's Pizza/Coudersport Drive-in Restaurant
Although it's not on Main Street, this restaurant deserves mention. This restaurant is the reason I am the person I am today. I was hired to work there in March of 1992 (at age 16) and stayed there until August of 1999 (the time of my moving to North Dakota). I've actually been there longer than the owners.
It's an old Tastee-Freeze, built in 1962. In the 1970's a dining area was added to it. More recently it became a Fox's Pizza. I was hired in March 1992, and in May 1992, new people, a mother and daughter, bought it. They have made a lot of changes for the better. There was a lot of painting done (it used to have this horrible orange-pink color). The deck oven was replaced by a conveyor oven. Most recently, a heated bathroom was put inside the building, replacing the two tiny, unheated bathrooms that used to be on the side of the building.
Final Comments
My descriptions are all in the past tense. I am no longer a resident of Potter County. I knew I would move away. It became very easy to move away during my last year there. There were a lot of problems while I taught temporarily in Coudersport. I also found that the town was growing too fast. Traffic became a problem. I found that many of the newer people were unfriendly or friendly but too different from me. Since I moved away in August of 1999, several parking garages have gone up, and office buildings are sprouting all over. As of this writing, I have not yet been back to visit, but I'm honestly afraid of what I will find when I return. They say you can never go back home, and I think that's true.
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