Leon Yelland's Young Oval Master
Adam Pecks's Buck
Gary Brown's GB Racing Ace
"A racing machine shall not be fitted with brakes, brake attachments, mudguards of any size, rat-trap or all metal pedals, toe clips or straps, lamp brackets, wing-nuts, any form of gears or any other fittings considered dangerous by the referee.
Handlebars shall not exceed 750mm in width measured in a straight line from end to end, each end shall be protected by a soft substance, preferably handlebar grips.
Wheel spindles shall not protrude more than 18mm outside the forks. Not more than 6mm of thread shall be exposed beyond the wheel nut with only one wheelnut allowed each side of the spindle on the outside of the fork.
Chain tensioners will be permitted provided they have no protruding spikes (these must be ground flat) and that the thread does not protrude more than 6mm. Tyres and pedals shall not contain any additional fittings, i.e. studs.
A spare uncovered sprocket on the rear wheel is permitted."
OK, so fairly straight forward rules. If your bike meets these requirements then you can race it - even if it looks nothing like a typical machine! This means any old road bike stripped down is perfectly fine for beginners. In competitions for riders under 10, machines may be used which do not fully comply with the regulations, so it's even easier to get started. To be competitive however, many top riders will buy a frame or complete bike custom designed specifically for themselves and the job at hand.
So what is a typical cycle speedway bike like?
Frame & Forks Strong and lightweight (Reynolds 531 tubing for example), with compact dimensions. The use of straight forks and a short wheelbase results in excellent handling around tight bends. Today the Archie Wilkinson machines are perhaps the most popular, and they now do an aluminium frame if you fancy one. But there are others available such as Pedalsport, Trac Star, Bio and Young Cycles. Ace Cycles were very popular in the 90's so you will still see plenty of their bikes around.
Some models are based on MTB frames for better compatibility with MTB componentry.
For the shorter junior rider there are more cut-down frames available than there used to be.
As for finish, I personally recommend chrome plating. Not only does it look the business, it won't be chipped like conventional paintwork when someone ploughs into you!
I took the measurements of my Archie Wilkinson frame for reference.
Tyres The excellent 26"*1 3/8" Trelleborg Speedway knobbly tyre (which is also great on the road), served the sport well for many years, but it is no longer made. If you have any unused ones hiding away they could fetch a tidy sum!
This encouraged riders to try MTB wheels which offered a massive choice of tyres, but they have failed to appeal to everyone.
The Nokia Speed Hakka was the first replacement for the Trelleborg. They worked well enough for me but didn't really catch on, and most people have now switched to the latest tyre - the Schwalbe Speedway Pro. This is a direct replacement for the Trelleborg.
Wheels Most riders use light alloy wheels but be aware that they can go a funny shape when you lose a few spokes - quite likely! I recommend you regularly check your wheels are straight.
Size-wise wheels have traditionally always been the same to fit the 26" Trelleborg tyre (and now the Schwalbe). Those running MTB style fromes may use a wider wheel to suit their tyre choice, while smaller frames may employ 24" alternatives.
Transmission TA cranksets are by far the most popular due to the wide range of chain ring and crank arm sizes made. These no longer seem to be widely available, and I personally think they are overrated, so consider alternatives.
With no gears getting the right ratio of chain ring to freewheel teeth can be crucial to winning the race. 33:18 is the most common but factors such as track length, wheel size & crank arm length will have an effect on what's best. Too high a gearing and you'll be left at the gate, too low and you'll be overtaken/very worn out! This Gearing Table can be used to compare ratios.
A longer crank arm gives more leverage for a faster gate, but if too long it can clip the ground or the front tyre. Longer legs can generally cope with longer lengths but175mm is perhaps a safe bet for adult riders.
Insist on a quality chain, maintained quite tight and in-line. I suggest avoiding 3/32" derailleur chain (it's designed to come off!) and it doesn't fit typical 1/8" single speed components.
The best bet for pedals is something small (that won't hit the ground while cornering), and grippy. Slipping off the pedals in the wet is no fun. Many riders use a plastic block covered with sandpaper.
Handlebars Personal preference plays a part here but a tight wrap-around 'Canadian Benz' style is the basic design. In the fifties wide 'Cow-Horn' bars were the thing. They were great for helping keep opponents behind you, but not the best for gating and tight cornering.
Grips are a personal thing, but avoid insulation tape. I prefer a fatter hold and it certainly ain't grippy.
Saddle Something light and uncomfortable is my recommendation. If you're spending time sitting down then you ain't going fast enough! Some riders may use a seat stem designed to push the seat further back, putting more weight onto the back wheel.
Brakes What are they? You big sissy :-)
Examples
Leon Yelland's Young Oval Master
Adam Pecks's Buck
Gary Brown's GB Racing Ace
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