FAQS: (Frequently asked questions)
Ins and outs of measuring.
Hint # 1.. tools needs for a proper measurement.. 4 tape measures, a yard stick, a caliper(* see below), a set of washable kid markers, a small hard ruler , pins, cheap muslin, tracing paper, wheel, sewing machine a string level and string, about 2 yards of lingerie or other thin elastic for your waist and sleeve cap measurements.
Hint # 2. The use of the caliper is described below
the string level is handy on that long side seam... place the level on the string near but not at the bottom...by holding the top of the string just under the arm drop the string toward the floor.. when its over your "marks" hold it till its level then draw your side seam line).
To make the perfect crotch measuring device... tape two tapes together starting at 0.. place the third tape between them so it drops straight down.. pull one up to the waist front.. the other up to the wiast back and make sure the one hanging down is exactly in the middle of your middle...it will take your inseam your tapes should look like this
4 3 2 1 1 2 3 4
......... .1
.......... 2
...........3
...........4
1.Q. I want to make the princess blouse and I just got DS.. can I make my sloper with the Princess instead of the fitted Bodice?
A. No.. the fitted bodice is the only pattern where you can remove ALL ease including design ease. When drafting the bodice, choose 2 darts,change the default ease to zeros ( except for the crotch ease) remove the hem allowance and print the right side pieces in 25 % scale.
2. How do I change the printer to different scales?
A. Go to File, then print set up ,select your printer, and change the little box to 25% Do this BEFORE drafting the pattern.
3. Why bother with a bodice muslin?
Once you get this one right everything else will print right. If the bodice is off its like building a dress form for YOU with someone else's measurements.
Remember that DS is a Computer Program... you are not hand drafting this set of patterns.. and the computer will do only WHAT you tell it to.Make sure your measurements are accurate to within 1/8th inch.. and taken to and from the EXACT points described in the manual.
4. TIP... before you print out a full size bodice make a paper doll of the good measurement set.. tape it together after slashing and taping all the darts... stuff it with cotton balls and gently cover it with tape. Use it as a 1/4 scale dress form when trying other pattern pieces. Its a great tool for deciding just how much ease you want to add or subtract from the default ease the computer chooses for you when designing from the standard pattern pieces. Better yet.. make the 1/4 scale sloper up in muslin, stuff with cotton batting, sew the basic 2 dart bodice to the fitted pant.. and you have a body double in 1/4 scale.. buy a cheap doll stand (Wally world sells em) and voila... a mini mannakin to audition all your fun designs and changes... to make the doll more body shaped.. use a curved upholstery needle and take a few stitches as needed to sculpt the bust line, hips and so on.. takes about an hr.. and is great fun!
5. I'm having trouble finding my correct shoulder and or side seam line. How can I be sure it's right?
A You have some money invested in the program.. get or borrow one more tool... a caliper (like wood workers use on a lathe) found in local hardware stores..too anxious ..go to the kitchen and get down the kitchen tongs that open and close with handles (Hinged like a scissor)
place the open caliper (tong) on either side of the shoulder.. and make a tiny mark so you can find the exact spot again.. measure across the opening and divide by 2.. the first mark should be near the intersection of the neck.. the second near the end of the shoulder.. draw a straight line exactly over both mid point marks... voila a shoulder seam!
Do the same thing on the side seam mark at least 3 places and draw your line over the midpoints.. ignore any tummy/ hip fluff.. the first mark should be just under the bra and as tight to the rib cage as possible...
6. WWSS ( whine whine snivel snivel ) I cant do this.. Im frustrated!
Take a deep breath.. have a cup of tea, look at a pretty flower and then bring up the Livingsoft home page.. see the "experts near you" page, find your nearest distributor.. they have been trained to take your measurements and make them right!
The avg cost for full measuring and both slopers is $80.00.. plan on spending at least a few hours with her..maybe even a second trip ( no extra charge) to refine the fit.
Have measurements that are almost there.. but still have a wrinkle or 2... come to MIRC, Dal.Net #dressshop.. DS users chat about fit, design styles, and sewing hints.. you can download MIRC off my homepage. (Besides that it's fun!)