COSTUMES AND CLOTHING

The Non-Western World

Outside the Western European sphere of influence, costume tends to be traditional, and variations from the original forms are traceable to influences of conquest and migration. Where non-Western cultures have come into conflict with Western ideas, traditional costume has often been displaced or even obliterated. In Africa, the Middle East, and the Far East many aspects of traditional costume have survived, and the influence, particularly of the Muslim conquests, can be traced in the costumes of the various areas.

Africa

Costume in Africa is generally in the draped rather than the fitted tradition, as might be expected from the climate, and it varies from the loincloth to the elaborately patterned and draped robe. A Middle Eastern influence can be detected across North Africa and in some places south of the Sahara and in East Africa, where the rather grander appearing sewn robe, sometimes with a draped outer garment and sometimes with a caftan like overrobe, may be found.

Helpful links (Courtesy of Smilka Besgrove):
African Crafts
Stones Art Gallery
Pharaonic Arts
The Union Station
African Shop

The Middle East

The Middle East shows a mixture of costume influences from ancient times. Although distinct traces and forms are found in particular regions, the general effect is of a rich conglomeration of traditions adapted and adjusted to the local climates and activities. Until oil became important to the industrial West, little change had occurred in the ancient traditional costume, beyond the introduction of silk from the Far East during the early Byzantine Empire. In recent decades, Western manufactured dress has rapidly displaced much of the more expensive traditional handmade costumes. Some resurgence of the more basic forms of traditional dress has occurred with the upsurge of traditional Muslim values.

India

Before the Muslim conquests of the 16th century, the people of India seem to have worn only variations of the draped costume of the hot-climate ancient world, including the loincloth and the sari. Middle Eastern influences came with the Mughal Empire and seem substantially greater on Indian traditional costume than the Western influence was under the British Empire.

Southeast Asia

Clothing in Southeast Asia seems to be a variation of the draped costume. Trousers resembling those of the ancient Persians are combined with an open-sleeved coat or sleeveless waistcoat. The aristocracy and royal families have developed a ceremonial costume of elaboration and decoration similar to their tradition in architecture.

China, Japan, and Korea

Traditional dress in China, Japan, and Korea consisting of silk and light cloth made of finely woven fibers have been used in square-cut, open-robe costumes that can be layered almost endlessly against cold weather. Trousers, common in China, are infrequent in Japanese traditional costume, but in general the rest of the styles are similar. The industrial Westernization of Japan in after World War II has also Westernized the national costume.

20th Century

Introduction

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