Basic Obedience Commands:

Formal obedience training should begin when your pup is 4-6 months old without pressure. Use bait (liver treats) to motivate the proper behavior. Save leash corrections for "when all else fails" tactics. Remember all dogs are different and have their own personalities, temperament, pain threshold and learning ability. Assess your pup and train to their level.

This is only an outline.

LEASH:
Your leash should be kept in control at all times by folding it loosely in your hand. The bolt should hang under your dog's chin.

COLLAR:
The training collar should be kept up behind your dog's ears. The collar should be taken off whenever you are not with your dog as your dog could strangulate.

PRAISE:
Encourage your dog to do things correctly through praise. Let them know when they do something right. Be verbal. Be happy! Don't be afraid to use bait to reimforce motivation and proper behavior.

CORRECTION:
Save leash corrects for an "when all else fails" tactic. Correct your dog with a quick, swift snap of the leash. (Avoid tugging) The leash should return to a hanging position immediately after the correction. Corrections are not intended to cause a dog pain, but are used to get your dog's attention.

COMMANDS:
Commands should be given with commitment and authority, though please, don't yell at your dog. Commands should be a declarative statement, not a question. Commands should be given once, as you don't want to teach your dog that you are going to repeat yourself.

Keep formal commands separate from informal commands. For example, don't tell your dog to formally come to you when you are sitting on the couch watching TV. The formal command, "Rover, Come" means that your dog has to come to you and sit in front. When you are relaxing on the couch use an informal command such as "come here", or "come on".

PRACTICE:
Practice makes perfect! You should work your dog at least once a day for optimum results. Dogs are like children, they have a short attention span and need reinforcement of success. Short lessons are the most productive. I suggest three, ten minute sessions rather than one, thirty minute session. Always end on a good note. Be careful not to over-train as it will cause your dog to withdraw.

After a training session, take a 5-10 minute play break.

OK:
To release your dog from a formal command, tap them on the side and say, "Okay".

OFF:
With the palm of your hand towards you, swing in a downward motion like you are brushing something off your front and tell your dog, "OFF".

EASY:
While your dog is on okay, they are allowed to roam, but your dog should not be allowed to pull on the leash. Teach your dog to respect the leash by using a leash correction and saying "Easy". This does not mean your dog cannot sniff the ground, or roam, it only means don't pull me.

WAIT:
Teach your dog to wait at the door for your releae by pointing one finger at your dog and telling them, "Wait". After they wait at the door, give the "Okay" release.

NO BITE:
If your puppy nibbles on your hand, take the lower jaw in your hand and gently apply pressure until they are uncomfortable, say "No Bite." Allow your dog to kiss your hand!

SIT:
Give your dog one command to "Sit". Tap your chest, make kissy noises, hold a piece of bait above them, anything to get your dog to look up. Usually when a dog looks up, the rear goes down! If needed, tuck behind the hocks to get your dog to sit. Try to avoid pushing on the hips and back.

RECALL:
Your dog should come when called. Call your dog's name to get their attention, then give one command to "Come". Hold a piece of bait at your belly button. Gather your leash in front of you and say "Sit" when they get in front. Make them wait for the release "Okay" before being allowed to get up.

HEEL:
Heel position is: your dog walking at your pace with their shoulder in line with your left leg. Your dog should sit at your side when you come to a stop.

Start off by saying your dog's name to get their attention, and then give one command to "Heel". Step out with your left leg. Keep a controlled pace. Use bait in your left hand to encourage the dog into the proper position. Slow your pace down a few steps before your stop and tell your dog, "Sit".

DOWN:
With your dog standing at your side, gather your leash in your left hand. Hold a piece of bait in your right hand, bring it to the floor between the dog's two front legs. Tell your dog "Down." Use the leash to keep the dog from backing up. Keep the bait in a closed fist until the dog is laying down. Stand next to the dog and drop pieces of bait between their front feet to encourage them to stay down, reminding them of the command, "Down."

When your dog gets the concept of "Down", teach them the hand signal. The down hand signal is given with the right hand. The elbow is out, wrist flexed back, fingers pointed up. Move your right leg forward in a giant step and twist your upper body to present the signal. Give your dog one command "Down." Your left leg should remain in heel position. Keep the signal up until your dog is down.

STAY:
With your dog in heel position, sitting at your left side, give the command, "Stay." The stay hand signal is given with the left hand. The fingers are pointed downward, the palm of the hand is towards your dog's muzzle. Do not touch your dog. Leave with the right leg. Remember to return to your dog before they break to train on success, not failure.

Liver Treats

1 pound liver, fried in oil until browned.
3 cups flour
1 jar (3 cups) wheat germ
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 egg
water

After frying liver pour 1+ cup water pan, bring to boil scrapping bottom.

Place cut up pieces of liver and water in blender and mix to get consistency of pudding.

Add meat mixture to remaining ingredients. Knead with hands. Add more water if needed to combine ingredients. Drop by spoonful onto baking sheet. Cook at 350 degrees for 10 minutes. Refrigerate in air-tight container. Freeze extras!

 

Housebreaking Made Easy

Housebreaking your puppy is a task that takes consistency and diligence. When you get your puppy home, regardless if it is seven weeks or seven months, the first thing you will do is discard the newspapers.

Purchase or rent a crate. The crate should not be oversized so that the puppy can eliminate in one end and sleep at the other. The crate should however be large enough so that your pup can change positions comfortably. The crate should have a machine washable bed inside along with a chew toy. Teach your puppy that the crate is a good place to be. Never use the crate as punishment.

Whenever you are not with your pup, watching them, they should be crated. You want to avoid accidents before they happen.

When you crate your pup for the night, make sure you give them the opportunity to relieve themselves. Pick up food and water about 2 hours before bedtime.

First thing in the morning, open the crate and CARRY the pup outside. Don't wait. Go outside with your pup, name it, praise them. "Good puppy, business."

If your puppy does have an accident in the house or in their crate, DON'T PUT THEIR NOSES IN IT. Your puppy is learning too. The evidence of the deed is there and believe me, they know it. While you are cleaning up the mess, keep the pup in the room with you. Yell, rant, rave and complain. "BAD PUPPY, BUSINESS IN THE HOUSE… WHO DID THIS MESS, SHAME ON YOU…" The pup will probably be watching from the corner. When you are done cleaning up the mess take the pup outside. Of course they won't have to go, they just did all over your floor. But as soon as they look or sniff the ground reassure them, "Good puppy, business outside… good puppy!"

Make sure your puppy's crate is always clean. If you want your puppy to learn to be clean, you have to teach him to be clean. This is one of the major problems with pet store puppies. They learn to be dirty by being forced to eliminate where they live and sleep.



Pauline Bragg-Ramos
12 Emily Street
Springfield, MA 01109
413-736-7756

Site designed by Internetworks