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  THE FLOWER GARDEN

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INDEX:
From the Ground Up:   Healthy Soil
Getting Started With Your Own Flower Garden

Testing Your Soil
Plant Selection and Planting
Petal Pushing ...Extending Your Zone

Flower Arranging
Growing easy Roses
Water Wise Gardening
Resources
 

 

 

  

      
Tip:   Know about your growing environment....soil, sun, moisture....then select the right plant for the site!

FROM THE GROUND UP:   HEALTHY SOIL

DEALING WITH CLAY SOIL:  The biggest problem we had was working with dense clay-type soil.  To have good plant growth and abundant bloom, you need to start with good soil.  The existing soil I have to deal with is so dense that we had a hard time finding any earthworms, although we did find grubs under the grass roots!  Any type of soil can be amended to allow good structure and nutrients to be available to your plantings.   Listed below are amendments that will help enrich and improve the structure of  clay soil, and soil of any type. 

SOIL AMENDMENTS:
Topsoil, Compost, Rotted leaves, Rotted manure,
Peat Moss, Humus, Wood chips, Composted grass clippings

NOTE: If you have clay soil and want to add topsoil, check to see from where the topsoil has come!   I was surprised that a year later, the soil was still full of clay, after we had incorporated several yards of topsoil for our small area, and tilled it in with peat moss and compost.  If the local landscaping companies get their topsoil from the same area, chances are good that the clay in the purchased topsoil will also bind your soil!  You can offset this effect by adding a lot of organic material to your soil.  Don't give up on it!  It takes several years to get really good soil, so be patient and keep at it.

DEALING WITH SANDY SOIL:  Again, add lots of organic material, compost, manure, peat moss, and you may also want to incorporate purchased top soil.  Mix these in each year, and you will build a soil that is rich in nutrients and will hold moisture.  Persistence is the key.

Regardless of the type of soil you have, be sure to have your soil tested before you start planting your garden.  This way, you can correct any deficiencies of minerals in your soil before any problems arise with your plants.  An imbalance of micro-nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) in your soil can cause serious health problems to your plants.   See TESTING YOUR SOIL.

GETTING STARTED WITH YOUR OWN FLOWER GARDEN
One of the things I like most about flower gardening is the vast selection of hardy plants.   They add color and interest to the landscape, many of them are tough enough to withstand fluctuations of heat and cold, and then, amazingly, come back in the spring to begin the process again.  People often ask, “I’m busy and want plants that will hold their own…are there any that are maintenance free?”  All plants require water and some care throughout their growing season.  I haven’t found many that are maintenance-free…unless one happens to prefer yucca or hardy cacti, which aren’t quite the ingredients of a colorful flower garden!  Set aside some time to garden!   Put your troubles away for this time with nature. You will be rewarded with the tranquil beauty plants bring to you and your home.

FIRST, select a site where you can view the garden from a patio, deck, or window, where it can easily be seen.  Be sure your site is in a place that gets the right amount of sunlight for the kind of plants you want to grow.  Check the area several times during the day to determine the sun pattern in that area.  Decide what plants you want to grow in this place, and what conditions they require. This means doing some research on your plants.  What type of soil do you have, and is it a wet or dry area?  These things will determine the types of plants you can grow successfully.  For instance, you won't be able to grow healthy azaleas in an area that gets full sun, has poor drainage and a high Ph (alkaline) soil.  These conditions are not appropriate for this type of plant. 
Design of your flower bed:  Starting in the spring, or fall,  take a garden hose and outlined the area you want to use.  Then you can dig a little trench to mark the outline.  We remove the grass, although some people like to kill the grass off by putting down newspaper or piling soil on over for a few weeks first.  It's more work, but faster to just remove the sod, so that tilling in amendments won't chop up grass roots that will grow back later and have to be pulled out.


SECOND
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once the site has been selected, we take a sample of  soil to our local County Extension Office to be tested.  We then know the soil Ph, and existing nutrients which enable us to best decide what amendments are needed: 

Testing Your Soil
Once you have found a suitable location, the next thing to do is test your soil.  This is a very important step that should not be skipped!  Your county extension office can do this, for a minimal fee.  This is more accurate than doing it yourself, and results and recommendations will be explained in a report that is sent to your home.  To do this, take samples of soil at several different places in your garden area, going about six inches deep.  Mix the soil, dry it, and place about 2 cups of it in a zip lock bag with your name, and take it to your county extension office.  They will mail it out, and you will have results back in about two weeks.  Results will indicate your soil conditions, what is needed to improve Ph, or to replenish missing nutrients.  You will then have time to correct any problems with your soil before your plants are in the ground.  

Till in recommended nutrients, compost, peat moss, and other organic material.   Be careful not to till your soil while it's wet!  The surface may appear dry...use a shovel and dig down at least 12 inches to make sure the soil has dried to a "barely damp" stage...if the soil is dark underneath, it is best to wait a few more sunny days before tilling.  Tilling soil when wet,  turns even the best soil into clods that are nearly impossible to break apart.  The texture of the soil will be compromised.   New plants will have a hard time putting down new roots in a rocky soil structure.   It is best to wait an extra week to work the soil properly,  than to wait a season for your soil AND plants to recover!!  

PLANT SELECTION AND PLANTING
THIRD, select the type of plant that best suits the particular conditions in your growing area.  Don’t overlook natives.  Check to ensure the plants you choose are hardy for the zone you live in.  If you’re not sure what zone you are in, check the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. 
When you are ready to plant, make sure the hole is twice as wide as the root ball.  Enrich the soil with humus, or compost before you place the plant in the hole.  Set the plant in the hole at the same depth that it had been growing in the original container.  Then fill in with the improved soil, and water in well.  Planting your flower garden on a cloudy day, or in the late afternoon, will minimize transplant shock.  Do not fertilize until your plants are established in their new location, and putting on fresh growth.    If you incorporated compost and organic matter into the soil at planting, there are plenty of nutrients there to keep the plant happy and healthy for some time.  You may supplement with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks throughout the growing season
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Recommended resources for selecting garden plants

Encyclopedia of Garden Plants    American Horticultural Society
An amazing collection of plants, color pictures, and descriptions of  thousands of flowers, shrubs, trees, water plants, and more.  A wonderful resource and reference book!

National Garden Book  Sunset Books, Inc.
This reference book contains listings of plants and artist illustrations.  The zones they live in, whether sun or shade, culture, and different varieties are noted in each description.  There is also a Visual Guide to Identifying Weeds, which has color pictures for identification
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Any suggestions or questions?
Send them to Fran:   
homegardener(at)yahoo.com
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