Chickens and Their Daily Needs
by Chickman

Chickens can be a lot of fun to raise. I have had several layer breeds, some exhibition breeds, and also specialty breeds. Out of the different types that I have raised, I would have to say that the multi-purpose layers are the easiest to care for and have the best disposition. I like the Rhode Island Reds the best, as they are fairly docile and good egg producers. If you are fortunate enough to get some that still have the instinct to brood chicks, they do a pretty fair job of hatching and rearing. The ones that I have raised, averaged five eggs per week per hen. Without artificial light, they layed approximately 180 eggs per hen during their first laying season. The eggs are brown in color, and of medium size.

I am currently raising Silver Sebright Bantams. These are exhibition quality and I am hoping to raise and exhibit even better specimens. I have also raised Gamefowl and really enjoyed them for their beauty and stamina. The hens were used for brooding the eggs from the Sebrights, as well as their own. The cockerels must be separated at an early age due to their fighting instincts. They start sparring when only weeks old. I also raise Racing Homer Pigeons. They are fun to have, as they are easier to tame than the chickens. I can hold out my hand to them with some feed in it and they will fly to my hand or arm to get the feed.

Chickens  need shelter from the the elements and protection from preditors. This is normally in the form of housing of wood construction and an outdoor run with poultry wire sides and top. It is important that the chickens roost in the coop with the door closed to protect them from nighttime preditors unless the pen is constructed with heavy guage welded wire. It is much more expensive than poultry wire, but, it will withstand the attempts of destruction by most any predator. The design of the coop is based on size, quantity, and type of chickens being housed. Layers require nest boxes in which to lay there eggs. The roost is designed to accommodate the number being housed in relation to the size of coop. In other words, enough space to keep them close together during cold weather and also to give them more space during hot weather.
The coop needs to be ventilated to allow fresh air to flow through it to keep it free of moisture and ammonia. Ammonia is in their droppings and the odor will continue to build if the moisture level is too high. I design my coops with cross ventilation and they are fine for my climatic conditions. Using pine shavings on the floor of the coop, is an important part in the moisture equation. Some people use hay or straw; not as absorbant as the shavings and can harbor molds. Shavings are actually less expensive than hay or straw and has to be replaced less often.

The most important of all the needs of chickens is fresh water daily. The water container should be cleaned daily to eliminate bacteria. I clean these with a bleach/water solution at least once weekly. I use 1 teaspoon of bleach per 1 gallon of fresh water as their daily water supply, since I live in a rural area and use well water. City water does not require the bleach as an additive. Stale water is not good for them and if it is left in direct sunlight, can form Algae. Algae poisoning is common in poorly managed conditions. Lack of fresh water can cause death, primarily from salt poisoning. Chickens can die from salt overdose within hours.

Feed must contain the proper amount of protein for the needs of the particular type of chicken and it's age. Commercial feeds are formulated to meet those needs. Layer chicks require medicated chick starter for the first eight weeks of their lives and a developer until eighteen weeks of age; gradually change their rations to layer crumbles or pellets. Broiler chicks, sporting birds, and specialty flocks require different rations that are especially formulated for them. Mixing of these feeds, causes an imbalance of the protein and is not recommended.
"Scratch Feed" is used by many as a way to reduce costs, but, egg production drops and the hens are not in prime condition when this is done. I consider this type of feed to be a treat and give it to them periodically as a second meal in the day. I also like to give my chickens lots of greens in their diet. The greens are nutritious and adds color to the yolks of their eggs. I give them fruit, also. They love to see me coming with banana peels or apple peels.

The chickens need some variety in their lives just as people do, to avoid boredom. Chickens that are confined to the same location each day, start bad habits to overcome their boredom. Overcrowding is another reason for bad habits. I have designed a Mobile Unit to help eliminate these problems and to give them access to fresh ground as needed. This unit can house up to eight hens and gives them security from predators. Since it has an optional wheel assembly, I can easily move it and the chickens as needed.

The health of the chickens can be enhanced by maintaining a good environment for them. This does not eliminate the possibility for them to become ill. One should be prepared for the common illnesses and implement a preventive maintenance program from the onset. Chickens that are in contact with the ground are susceptible to worms, and should be treated with a wormer if they show signs of an overload of these parasites. Mites and lice are also a common problem that can be remedied before they become a problem. If you give them garlic on a monthly basis, both of the above problems will be minimized. I administer 1/8 teaspoon of powdered garlic per gallon of water as their sole source of drinking water once per month. The coop should be kept clean and free of drafts, to reduce the possibility of respiratory diseases. You should also practice Biosecurity to minimize the risk of diseases being brought in from other flocks.

There are some things that you can do to get the maximum enjoyment from your flock. Spend some time with them each day, and they will learn to accept you as part of the flock. You should be able to pick up any of them to inspect for potential problems, and petting. The more you pet them, the more they like it. You should read several books on how to raise them; I say several, as none of them cover everything you need to know. I have enjoyed the writings of Gail Damerow. She has written several good books on poultry and an excellent book on their health; "The Chicken Health Handbook".
Something else you may elect to do is, join a poultry club in your area. There are many clubs nationwide, but sorry to say, they do very little advertising. I am a member of Guil-Rand Fowl Fanciers Club. We have monthly meetings at the Guilford County Agriculture Center in Greensboro, North Carolina. The meetings are times when we can get together and discuss our poultry and ways to improve on their environment. Most of the members exhibit their poultry at the shows throughout the year.
The shows are excellent avenues for learning about quality of the many breeds. The breeders usually have some of their stock to sell during or after the show. It is a great way to purchase new stock. All the entries have been tested for Pollorum and Typhoid and that is a huge step in the direction of healthy chickens. It is good practice to quarantine newly purchased poultry for thirty days. This will give you sufficient time to determine their health and habits.
When you do put them in with the rest of the flock, a new pecking order will be established. This could cause damage to some of them, and should be monitored until they have adjusted. There are several techniques to use to minimize the aggressiveness. One way is to put the new ones in a wire cage within the coop for a few days. Release them at night and put them on the roost with the others. Monitor them the next day and if one or two of the original hens are still too aggressive, then put them in the cage for a few days. This should take care of any further problems.

I hope this information will help you maximize your poultry enjoyment.
If I can be of further assistance to answer your poultry related questions or coop designs, please feel free to E-Mail me at any time at:Chickman

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