When choosing a Sheltie for show purposes, the coat must be of
first consideration with texture and density all important. Texture
means silkiness, and density means thickness. It is often difficult
to access coat density by feel in a very young pig, so it is always
advisable to obtain stock from a reliable breeder. Type is also
an important consideration, long ratty noses are out, and a shape
which looks very roman nosed when viewed sideways is the one which
will type up into a nice short square faced adult. Ears can sometimes
be a bit of a problem in Shelties as many have their ears set
to high (an inheritance from their Peruvian ancestors). Always
choose a baby with nice big ears, which at about 6 weeks of age
are beginning to droop and are not to highly set. Sometimes the
growing hair will push the ears up. This doesn't matter, but it
does help to give them a daily push down with dampened fingers.
It is advisable to give long haired prospective show babies a
dip in insecticide when they are a few days old and again at about
6 weeks, so that the coat isn't spoiled by scratching. Shoulders,
coat and sweep hair must be of good even length, although the
sweep is usually longer than the rest of the coat. The whole being
even and dense. Many people prefer to show dark bottomed colour
cavies only, but some light bottomed pigs are very clean and need
not be discarded because of their colour.
I doesn't matter which sex the cavy is providing that it is of
show temperament and standard. Either usually become sterile when
shown a lot and sows which do conceive for the first time when
over a year old often have difficult births.
It is best to start with a pair or trio of babies, each one being
given a separate hutch. Plenty of fresh hay daily is a must as
this prevents the cavy from chewing it's own hair from boredom.
It is wise for each cavy to have a brush and comb of it's own
as some are disturbed by the smell of others and may chew hair.
As a Sheltie in show coat is expected to sit quietly to be judged,
the first thing to do is to teach the youngster to sit still.
If it is placed on the palm of the hand and gently stroked in
the direction the coat lies each day, but prevented from moving
side to side by a gentle tap on the nose in whichever direction
it tries to make off. The little cavy soon understands what is
required of it. Some are more determined than others and need
a firmer hand, but if it just results in a daily battle of wills
it is best to assign such a cavy to the breeding pen, as some
just do not have the temperament necessary for show.
From about 10 weeks of age, as the coat begins to touch the ground,
the little cavy just can't help wetting itself. This makes the
coat cling together and begin to tangle, but it is quite easily
prevented with a few baths (bottom end only) and talc sprinkled
on when dry. Wet cavies must be thoroughly dried before being
put into their hutch, as some will attempt to dry themselves by
biting chunks of coat off.
Ordinary household shampoo can be used, followed by a rinse in
hair conditioner. Between shampoos cobs are kept at bay with a
daily dusting of talc, a little being left in the coat on top
and under the bottom. If the coat is damp talc sprinkled well
on and left till the next day for brushing out helps absorb moisture.
It is very unwise to try and put wrappers in too soon. Unless
there is at least a good one and a half inch of sweep hair the
wrapper will just fall out as it has insufficient grip. i find
three and a half to four months of age soon enough for an average
Sheltie to have it's first wrapper.
