Perms are back!!! Permanent waves do not necessarily
have give you a tight curl. They can add body and texture to hair. Most
"perms" given today are "waves". A body wave is set
on a larger rod and gives your hair volume. Pativa® now offers a new
technology that is thio-free, neutralizer free, damage free. It last as
long or longer than a conventional "perm".
Advice to give your stylist on ALKALINE PERMS ONLY:
1. Shampoo with Paul Mitchell® Shampoo 3 - It is
a clarifying shampoo and will remove all minerals, metals, medications,
and debris, internally from the hair.
2. Pre-Wrap with Paul Mitchell® The Detangler. A
small amount.
3. In between processing and neutralizing ...Use Paul
Mitchell® Wheat Bonding Solution® ( This is neat stuff folks)
4. After neutralizing... but before rinsing...apply The
Detangler (Paul Mitchell®) leave on 30 seconds and rinse.
5. Shampoo with Paul Mitchell® Shampoo 1 or for Very
dry hair - Paul Mitchell® Moisture and Shine®
Perming Techniques (compliments
of L'anza® Research)
The first thing necessary for a successful permanent wave is good hair.
Procedures
A. ANALYSIS OF CLIENT'S HAIR - Determine the condition of the
client's hair. - Determine whether an Alkaline or Acid Wave should be used.
- Explain hair's condition and perm selection to client.
ALKALINE WAVE: The best choice for resistant hair, resistant grey hair,
Asian hair, hair with low elasticity, and hard to perm fine hair as well
as normal, healthy hair.
ACID WAVE: These are milder than alkaline perms and work at a lower
pH to reduce swelling of the hair during the perm process thus-reducing
the chance of damage to fragile and color treated hair. A good choice for
healthy hair with good elasticity, tinted hair, damaged hair, highlighted
hair, or fragile hair.
B. HAIR PREPARATION: THE ULTIMATE TREATMENT -Shampoo with L’anza®
Curls & Color Purifying Shampoo to remove any build-up that may exist.
Repeat if build-up is still present. -Spray hair with L’anza® Curls
& Color Keratin Booster and leave on hair. -Apply L’anza® Curls
& Color Reconstructor. Leave on hair 3-5 minutes and rinse. -Recheck
hair's condition. If there's any question about the hair's ability to take
a perm, do a test curl at this point.
C. ROD SELECTION Avoid use of spiral and concave rods when perming.
Spiral wrapped hair creates a looser curl than a croquinole wrap. Concave
rods make it impossible to wrap the hair without peaking the ends (which
will produce a tight curl on the ends and a loose curl at the scalp).
For the most natural wave pattern, a straight or cylindrical type rod
should be used. A straight or cylindrical rod can be wrapped with the hair
strands the same width from the scalp to the ends. This allows the wrap
to be executed in a true croquinole technique and helps avoid all spiraling
of the hair. It also prevents bunching of the hair which distorts the wave
pattern.
D. OFF-BASE ROD PLACEMENT Off-base rod placement is the most
effective way to perm. Hair wrapped on-base often ends-up with rod marks,
breakage and incongruent wave patterns.
To off-base wrap, a section is combed and held at a 45 degree angle
off the head form. When wound, it will tend to sit in front of its own
base (The trick is to make sure no portion of the rod is sitting on its
own base). The pressure from the rods above will insure that hair is curled
very close to the scalp. It also guarantees that congruent wave patterns
are formed and no rod marks are created. By running the tail of a comb
under the lower edge of the last rod wrapped in a section, the correct
size section is easily made.
E. THE PROPER USE OF END PAPERS Your off-base wrap should begin
by sandwiching the hair between two end papers. This technique allows the
hair to be held at the same width from scalp to ends.
End papers may also be inserted as the hair is wrapped to the scalp.
This is called cushion wrapping. Cushion wrapping is a great method to
protect fragile hair. It keeps hair from crossing into itself as it is
wrapped. It allows hair to swell and enables the solution to penetrate
quickly to the ends of the hair.
F. PROCESSING AND REDUCING The action of a perm comes from changing
cystine bond to cysteine, which is the effect of reducing the cystine bond.
This process allows the polypeptide chains to slip along side of each other
to conform to the circle (curl) produced when the hair is wrapped around
the rod.
G. TYPES OF PERMS The most common reducing agents are: . Ammonium
Thioglycolate (alkaline wave) pH 9.0-10. . Glycerylmonothiogrlycolate (acid
wave) pH 6.5-8.2. . Ammonium Thioglycolate and Hydrogen Peroxide (exothermic
wave) pH 8.4-9.0.
TIP: When perming tinted, highlighted or fragile hair add 1/4-oz. of
L’anza® Curls & Color Keratin Booster into 4-ozs. of reducing solution
This will strengthen the hair and the curl formation while you perm.
H. REDUCTION OF THE CYSTINE BOND
AMMONIUM THIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: Two hydrogen atoms are released
by two thiodiglycolate molecules which combine with the sulfur atoms that
form the cystine bond—thus creating cysteine.
AMMONIUM DITHIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: The formation of cysteine and
the changing of the two thioglycolate molecules into dithiodiglycolate
now takes place. At this point, the dithiodiglycolate will readily accept
the return of the hydrogen it released. But, if there is an excess of thiodiglycolate
present the cystine bond will remain broken and allow the polypeptide chains
to slip along side one another in response to the pressure placed on them
by wrapping them around a perm rod.
1. STOPPING THE REDUCING PROCESS There must be an excess amount of
thiodiglycolate on the hair for it to process. Therefore, all that is needed
to stop the reducing action is to rinse the rods with water. With an acid
wave it is very important to rinse well as the solution is not compatible
with the neutralizer. If the neutralizer is applied on top of the lotion
the rods will become hot.
J. NEUTRALIZING (Oxidizing) Neutralizing solution contains the
oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate. The oxidizing agent
releases oxygen in the hair. This combines with the hydrogen of the cysteine
to form water, as well as a new cystine bond.
TIP: Place a 1/4-oz. of L’anza® Curls & Color Keratin Booster
into your neutralizer. This will provide additional strength to the hair
and aid in the reformation of the cystine bonds.
K. OXIDATION PROCESS
ATMOSPHERIC OXIDATION: Allowing the oxygen in the atmosphere to neutralize
the perm and reform the cystine bonds is important. This process reforms
the cystine more slowly and completely because the hair is allowed to shrink
and the cystine bonds are brought back together naturally. It also eliminates
the fear of over oxidation. To be effective, hair must dry naturally and
slowly on the rods for 24 hours. (Not under the dryer or out in the sun).
L. LOCKING-IN RESULTS Once Neutralizer (oxidizer) is rinsed
from hair, complete steps 4 and 5 of the Ultimate Treatment. Spray Curls
& Color Chemical Balancer on to the hair (Ultimate Treatment Step 4).
This may be done on or off the rods. Chemical Balancer will slam the cuticle
layer shut to lock-in the perm and help eliminate perm odors. Leave on
hair for 3-5 minutes and rinse. Towel blot hair and apply a pearl-size
amount of Curls & Color Leave-In Protector to hair (Step 5). Leave-In
Protector will detangle, condition and protect hair from heat-styling,
sun exposure and other environmental damage.
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