Take a paper clip and make it into a big "U." Insert it into the diagnostic terminal, plug one end into pin 6 and one end into pin 12. On some older cars like my '85 it will be pin 5 and pin 6. Turn on the ignition, but do not start the car. Wait about 30 seconds and disconnect the connector from the Idle Air Control. It is on the passenger side of the throttle body. Start the engine. Use a Torx bit #T-20 to adjust idle by turning the torx screw located on the driver's side of the throttle body. There might be a protective cap over it. Just knock it out. Most idle speeds should be set around 800 rpms. Once the idle is set, turn off the engine. Reconnect the idle air control connector. Restart the car. Idle speed should be set and governed by the computer. You might set off an engine light while doing this. If so then erase the code out of the computer.
Take a paper clip and make it into a big "U". Insert it into the diagnostic terminal, plug one end into pin 6 and the other into pin 12. For some older cars like my '85 it might be pin 5 and pin 6. Turn on the ignition, but do not start the car. The engine light will flash. It should flash in a particular sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause, flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause. This is code 12. 1 flash then 2 flashes = 12. It will always flash the 12 code first, then any other codes stored in the computer. If the 12 code does not flash then the diagnostic circuit is defective. To clear any stored codes simply disconnect the battery for 30 seconds. Click here to see all the trouble codes.
If you would like to prevent that annoying wind from coming in around your window then read this. Take off the door panel. Located on the inside of the door there are white plastic taps that take a 10mm wrench. Move them ever so slightly up and this will let the window roll up a little higher. You will have to play with it a bit to get it just right.
Disconnect the brown/balck striped wire next to the heater box/fan housing. You will find this on the passenger side of the firewall. The wire should be in plain site. Also connect a jump to the diagnostic terminal. connect the pins together using a paper clip as told about in the above articles. This allows for proper timing reading and adjustments. Adjust to your liking using a timing gun. Remember to connect the brown/black striped wire when you are finished.
Porting is easy. Just use a Dremel and eat away at whatever you choose. Start with the two walls right behind the throttle body. These can easily be removed with a file. The throttle body opening can be ported open and blended to the inside of the plenum. A Dremel is recommended for any gasket port matching. Make sure the plenum, runners, and base flow together easily. The runner ports can be ported and blended at an angle so the air flows into the runners easier. The runners can not be ported. The base can be mildly ported. The stock throttle body should be polished up a bit. It is possible to port the stock throttle body, but bigger butterflies will be needed. Make sure everything is clean. Click here for some TPI porting pics.
The throttle valve cable is located on the driver's side of the throttle body next to the throttle cable. Open to wide open throttle , with the engine off, and test to see how tight the t.v. cable is. It should literally be piano string tight. If it is not then it needs to be adjusted. Use a screwdriver to push in the "D"-shaped button on the throttle bracket. Push or pull the cable housing to the desired length. Test again to see if it is right. If the cable is adjusted too tight you will know by a clicking sound when opening the throttle. The tighter the t.v. cable is then the later and harder the shifts. The looser the sooner and softer it will shift. At part throttle, your car should shift to 2nd at about 20mph and to 3rd at about 30mph.
Disconnect the two heater hoses from the throttle body. Just unscrew the clamps and pull them off. Connect them together using a piece of 5/8" hard tubing. Insert the tubing into each hose and clamp them down. You can get one long piece to replace the two short pieces. This will look a little better. Do not forget to replace any wasted anti-freeze.
First cut all the plastic off the top of the air box. Make the holes in the top bigger and make big holes in the bottom. Take off the plastic box thingy in between the throttle body and maf sensor. Connect a right angle piece of 3" pvc pipe to the rubber boot on the throttle body. Then use straight 3" pvc pipe to connect the elbow to the maf sensor. Two-part expoxy will hold everything together really well. I also use a rubber coating on the pvc pipe to help protect it from heat and then painted it. This allows for a lot more air flow and helps keep it smooth and cool. Note: this was done on an '85 Trans Am 305 TPI.
Use a razor blade and cut out the screens. Then use a pair of pliers to pull out all the little wires left in there. Use a hack saw blade and cut off the cooling fins inside the sensor. Then use a file to grind them down as much as possible and open up the inside of the maf sensor a little. Note: be careful not to damage the sensor. It is expensive.