Modifications
(as of 3/11/03, 29,000 miles)
Purchased 3/24/01, Owned 11/1/02, Tracked 5/10/03
GGoal - Performance for Street and Roadcourse (nothing added for looks, must have function)
My best estimates based on similarly modified (almost identical) cars would be the following (currently):
HP - 400-410hp (360-370rwhp)
Torque - 410 ft-lbs
0-60 - 4.5-4.6 seconds
1/4 mile - 12.5-12.6@112-114 mph
Top Speed - 175+ mph
***Link to 2003 Track Dates I attended***
Brakes
Baer GT+ Rotors, Calipers, and SS Brake Lines (3/23/02)
The stock brakes have a problem with warping and fade. I hate when brakes warp and fade, and since I would like to drive the car hard, they had to go. These brakes consists of 13.15" rotors which have thicker cheeks, curved vanes, and slots. They are also two-piece with a billet aluminum hat. The calipers are stronger, pressure cast, reducing flex which helps apply the pressure more evenly, preventing premature lockup and uneven pad wear. The whole system eliminates fade and actually improves braking distance after 5 stops from 100-0mph. After installing these with the SS Teflon brake lines, I seasoned and bedded them over a 2 week period. Part of the bedding process was 8 back to back stops from 65mph. The braking actually improved, as the temperature reached 900-1,100 degrees! These brakes feel better, firmer, and smoother all the time.
Hawk HP Plus Brake Pads (5/3/03)
I will be trying these out for 3 days at Summit Point this weekend. They squeak like crazy when stopping at traffic light or stop sign. I will probably take them off when I get back from the track because they also wear the rotors faster.
Brake Ducts (5/31/03)
I added the brake ducts after the brakes faded a few times at the Jefferson Circuit which is a tight 1.1 mile track. I will try them out on June 24th at Pocono and see how they do.
Computer
LS1Edit (4/23/03)
This is a high-powered program used to edit the car's computer via a PC. I want to use this to adjust the fuel and timing of the engine for the cam. After a run with my friend Steve logging the data, I realized that my Ltrim values are a bit high, and also the engine is running really rich under wide open throttle. The good thing was there was only one instance of knock retard and it was only .1 degrees. Although my cam did not set any engine codes, it can gain ~15hp from a tune along with a getting a better idle. While waiting for a laptop in order to use Autotap to record the data I need to edit the computer, I did change a few things on the computer using my desktop. I only changed absolute parameters:
Fan 1, On/Off: 205/196deg (Was 229/222deg)
Fan 2, On/Off: 215/205deg (Was 237/230deg)
Speed Limiter: 255mph (Was 162mph)
Rev Limiter: 6,600rpm (Was 6,200rpm)
Disable CAGS Light
More to follow!
Update (1/18/04) Many months ago, I logged data to and from work, making small changes, little by little to the MAF curve in order to get the S-trims, and L-trims in order. Along with some other tweaks to the timing table, and fan setting until I got the car running smoothly, with the L-trims dialed in, in order to make the car have the best power, with no knock retard in multiple different types of weather conditions. I also did other things that I can't remember at this time. The only thing I would still like to do, is to hook the car up to some wide-band 02 sensors while on the dyno to get the WOT A/F mixture dialed in perfectly. It is pretty close now, based on the car's 02 sensors. Not too lean, not too rich.
Engine
Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back Exhaust (5/23/01)
Original Exhaust
This was installed about a week after I had put the MTI Airlid on. This made a noticeably deeper and louder sound to the exhaust. By this time, I could feel a slight difference, but I was still not being too hard on the car yet, and LS-1's do not fully loosen up for 5,000-10,000 miles. Most owners say they can feel the difference, and the dyno usually shows 8-14 hp.
MTI Carbon Look Airlid (4/24/01)
Original Lid
Comparison
When I put this on, the car only had about 1,500 miles on it, so I was still taking it kind of easy. So, it is hard to say the performance gain since I don't have a lot of feel before installing. From what I see though, it is said to be worth 8-18 hp, along with the K&N filter.--I would believe it.
SLP Y-Pipe (8/6/01)
The picture shows a comparison of the flattened stock one vs. the new round 2-1/2" one. Only one side on the stock one is flattened, for ground clearance. This mod is rumored to gain 3-10hp. I think 3-5hp is more like it. It added a bit more sound to the exhaust too--I like it. Since I don't plan on doing headers, any extra flow I can get behind them is better.
Custom Oil Cooler with Remote Mount Oil Filter (12/02)
Below are the pictures from my installation. I will have more of the remote mount and filter on the car in the future.
This was a very long project due to lots of parts being required from multiple different manufacturers, custom fitting, and machining of parts out of aluminum. The parts used on this consisted of a Mocal/Aeroquip cooler, Mocal thermostat, Canton oil filter adapter, Perma-cool remote filter mount, Aeroquip stainless steel braided hoses, Aeroquip -10AN full flow aluminum fittings, and a K&N Performance Gold oil filter. The oil filter adapter was then custom ported for optimal flow along with porting of all straight aluminum fittings, and the remote oil filter mount. One of the aluminum fittings going into the remote filter mount also had a few of the unused threads cut off to enhance flow in/out of the filter. Aluminum spacers were TIG welded onto the remote filter adapter. I bracket to mount the thermostat was also cut and welded out of aluminum. The thermostat opens completely at 180F, but always allows 10% flow through the cooler. In the summer/fall before the cooler install, the normal operating temp of the oil was 180F to 210F, but when pushing the car for a minute or so, it could easily see 220F to 240F. I have heard that track use will take LS1 cars oil up to 290F to 310F. The hoses, larger filter, and cooler now bump the oil capacity from 5.5qts to 7qts. So far, although the weather is cold, the temp gauge usually shows about 170F which is the oil which is returning to the engine. A minute or two at highway speed brings the temp to 140F(20F weather). So most likely the oil entering the cooler is 20-30F+ higher. Obviously 140F is too cold, but the weather is extreme right now. I think that with warmer weather, the oil will stay around 180F and at the track hopefully will stay around 220F. Regarding pressure drop, I have not seen any noticeable loss in oil pressure. It still idles at ~55psi cold. When warm and at higher rpm's, I am still seeing 60-80psi. Another tip from Doug Rippie Motorsports was to plug the stock filter bypass hole with the supplied plug, allowing full flow to the filter and cooler at all times. You must keep up with the oil filter, as I do, or it will begin to get plugged, and the oil pressure will then start to drop. Many Saturdays and Sunday were dedicated to this project, and time was taken. The results seem to be worth it, and there were no oil leaks. All of the parts were of the highest quality, as this is not a part of the car to cut corners on. Contrary to what my friend Nate thinks, that MOCAL/Aeroquip oil cooler is very high quality and is the same kind used on NASCAR Winston Cup cars and high end Porsche and other exotics...from the factory. This was no doubt the hardest and most expensive project on the whole car (before cam install). I would like to give many thanks to these two websites.
Craig's site has a lot of great ideas and modifications for LS1 f-bodies and was what gave me the idea and baseline guidance for the cooler. http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/oilcooler.html
This other site is very similar install, only on an Acura Integra. http://www.sportauto.cc/Oil-Cooler/acura_integra_type_r_oil_cooler_text.htm
The below schematic is from the Acura website and is basically what mine looks like too.
Camshaft and Valvetrain Upgrades (4/5/03)
KaTech Heavy Duty Timing Chain
This is the same timing chain used in the Corvette C5R that is raced at the 24hrs of Daytona and LeMans, and also the 12hrs. of Sebring. I figured it would be plenty for 400HP. It is made in Switzerland and should keep the timing of the cam tight and accurate along with durable.
Comp Cams Extreme Energy 216/220, .525"/.532"114LSA Cam
I guess it took a while to pick a cam. I had a few things in mind--durability, mild tuning, and no losses in the low-mid range. In other words, since I am going to be using the car on the street and for hard 30 minute sessions on various roadcourses, I didn't want to have to scream it 6,600 rpm every shift to get useable power. I also didn't want a high lift cam that was going to be hard on the valvetrain. I am not running it 12 seconds down the strip. I am running in the 4,000-6,500 rpm range for up to 2-1/2 hours per day at an event! From what I read about this cam, it makes about 20-30rwhp without heads across most of the rpm range 1,600-6,600. I didn't want a peaky HP gain or a loss of torque down low. So far, the extra power is very noticeable. The car is louder all around, and really starts to pull around 3,500+...noticeably. Combined city/gas mileage has remained around 18-21mpg. Not bad, because you know I don't baby the car.
Comp Cams Hardened Chromoly Pushrods
These were added strictly for durability.
Comp Cams 918 Springs
I also added these for durability, actually a must for a cam above about .510" lift. Stock lift was .478"/.478". These springs have a great reputation for lifts up to .620". Since I am on the lower end of the scale, I am hoping to only have to change them every 25,000-30,000 miles, maybe longer. They make a lot more noise!!
Comp Cams Titanium Retainers
These were added to make the stress and abuse on the valvetrain easier. They weigh 40% less than the stock retainers (which aren't more than a few ounces), but think about what how much stress they put on a valvetrain spinning at 6,600rpm. The weight loss will be greatly appreciated by your valvetrain. They also reduce valve float and allow higher rpm running along with the upgraded springs.
KaTech Billet Belt Tensioner (1/10/04)
This was simply installed in order to replace the stock tensioner that was wobbling a lot front to back. This is a much more precise piece that will not wear out, and was based off the one on the Corvette C5R to eliminate the belt from jumping off at certain times above 5,200rpm.
TurnOne ASA Power Steering Pump (1/10/04)
I thought in order to really eliminate the problem of the power steering rack making groaning sounds due to the
extremely hot power steering fluid temps (even using Redline fluid) I would install the TurnOne ASA pump. This
pump is used on ASA stock cars which spin 6,000 - 6,800 rpm lap after lap with a Lingenfelter prepped LS1 engine. I
believe they say the stock one blew seals out after only a few laps, and that the reworked internals of this pump
brought temps down from 300+ F down to a more reasonable ~220F. The stock pump puts out ~15gpm around 6,000
rpm, and at least 3gpm at idle for slow speed maneuvers. The TurnOne pump is reworked internally in order to pump
only 7gpm at 6,000 rpm thus lowering the kinetic energy an keeping the fluid much cooler. The side effect is that it
does not put out the 3gpm until 1,200rpm which will make the steering not fully power assisted until you pass this.
This is why GM does not do this from the factory. I have not felt a difference to be honest. It supposedly frees up a
few HP too (2-3hp).
Removal of A/C System (1/10/04)
I guess the car is slightly less streetable and more track friendly. I did this simply to remove some weight off the car, especially the front, free up some horsepower, and to allow the radiator to get a lot more cooling for those 85F+ days. Well, it removed 34 lbs., a condenser, compressor, belt, three pulleys, belt tensioner, and a lot of room in the front of the car. I did a few other small things this day, like the free ram air mod, KaTech serpentine belt tensioner, and ASA PS pump, but I think the removal of the A/C was what made me feel like I picked up 15+hp. Even when the A/C isn't turned on, you are still spinning the belt, with a tensioner pushing, and the pulleys.
Fluids
Engine- Mobil 1 5W/30, Every 3,000 Miles with K&N Hi-Performance Gold Filter.
Tranny- Redline D4 ATF (noticeably smoother shifts, especially when cold)
Rear-end- Mobil 1 75W/90 Gear Lube with 1 Bottle of GM Limited Slip Additive
Cooling- GM Dexcool with 1 Bottle of Redline Water Wetter (needle shows 5-10 degrees cooler)
Brakes- ATE Super Blue
Power Steering- Redline Power Steering Fluid
Miscellaneous
Valentine One Radar (3/10/02)
This radar was given to me by my friend Dante. I mounted this above the rear view mirror so that it cannot be
seen at all from outside the car (light tint at top of windshield). I have it hardwired into the radio, all wires
are concealed along pillar, headliner, and dash. This radar detector tells you how many signals and in what
directions. I have found it useful in places during my commute where it always indicates (2) signals.....then one
morning, in the same spot, it indicates (3), for sure there is a cop. It seems to pick up cops very far in advance at
times. It is an additional tool, not the only go by. I have recently used little speaker wire clips with adhesive to
keep the wire from sliding out of the headliner.
Autometer Ultra-Lite Water and Oil Temperature Gauges (5/11/02)
I installed these gauges because the stock water temp gauge shows 210 degrees from about 175-225 degrees, due
to customers worrying about the engine in traffic on 98 models. I wanted to accurately know what temperature I
was at all the time. The oil gauge is installed because it didn't have one stock, and I hear these cars oil gets hot
when driving hard or at the track. One of my Future mods is going to be an oil cooler, so this should solve that
problem.
Harlan Shift Light (5/11/02)
This was installed because the car revs so fast in 1st and 2nd gear that the tach does not keep up. I have it set at
5800rpm, running off of the computer engine speed wire, and the stock tach shows about 5400rpm when the
computer says 5800rpm. Also, when driving the car hard it is hard to tell the difference between 5000rpm and
6000rpm when you are watching the road. The red flash is impossible to miss when looking ahead. I installed
mine in the defroster vent of the a-pillar.
Toolbox
This holds my tools and helps me get some of the smaller jobs done. When something bigger is going on, I go
over to my friend Karl's, and I help him, or he helps me depending on the job. This guy has taught me more about
cars than I had ever hoped for. I like to go over their to talk, watch, and help work on cars. His lift really comes
in handy. He knows more about cars than anybody I personally know. He is not just a mechanic, but a
mechanical engineer, and a long time modified and sprint-car racer. Stop by his place, Three Bridges Automotive
if you need something done to your car.
Power Steering Cooler (11/30/02)
I hear it is common for an LS1 f-body to overheat, boil over, and blow out the seal on the power steering when
driving at sustained high rpm's at the roadcourse. The faster the engine spins, the more the power steering pump
spins, thus creating heat. I installed a simple Perma-Cool 4-pass cooler, and mounted it behind the hole for the
foglights so that it will get ample flow. It is 5" x 7" and should hopefully do the trick. The reservoir is was barely
hot the other day after some hard, hard driving. Usually the plastic reservoir would be very hot to touch(like
metal), but the other day it was barely warm. I recently moved the cooler in front of the radiator as it got really hot
while at Summit Point and Jefferson Circuit. I think it just needed more airflow.
Autopower Video Camera Mount (1/30/03)
I put this in for mounting the video camera for taking videos at the track. It has a mount that absorbs vibration,
and the mount is SCCA and BMWCCA approved.
Safety
OMP Racing Gloves - 918 Professional (Blue)
Long gauntlet, 2-layer Nomex, padded palm, padded knuckles, reinforced forefinger, grey suede palm,
velcro adjusting back.
Recaro Sport Seats (8/30/02)
Well, in order to get these nice seats, I traded my front and rear leather seats and seatbelts for these nice Recaro's
with Sabelt Harnesses (They came out of a 00 SS with 8k miles). In my eyes it was definitely worth it, since I had
already removed the rear seats to save weight. The only downside was I paid extra money when I bought the car
for leather, but if they were cloth the trade may not have happened. Even without the belts on, these seats hold
you! You don't have to brace yourself or worry about your back twisting as you take a turn. They make it a little
bit harder to get in and out of the car (some of this is because I sit so close to the wheel) but it is well worth it.
They are actually a lot more comfortable than I thought. They weigh about the same as the stock front seats which
is the only downfall. I originally wanted light-weight non-adjustable, but I am happy I have these.
Sabelt 5 Point Racing Harnesses (8/30/02)
All I can say about these is that they really hold you in the seat. The camlock makes it easy to get in and out, jus
one spin of the release, and all 5 belts are loose. I ordered stock belts so that I have the option of using either or.
I prefer the stock belts at most times especially on the highway when you need to be able to lean forward to check
your blind spots. They are best used on single lane back roads.
Wolfecraft 6 Point Rollcage (9/21/02)
Wow! This cage really firmed up the handling of the car. The car now acts as on piece. If I jack up on one side
of the car, the car actually starts to lift a bit on the other side. 3 wheels can be lifted of the ground with a single
jacking point. The car feels a whole lot better now, although a lot firmer. This addition was a must just in case
something happens when I am going 80mph on the downhill at Limerock, or 150mph down the straight at Watkins
Glen. Most likely nothing will happen, but it is always better to be too safe. Again this made it harder to get in and
out of the car, but not too bad, again, this is because I sit so close to the wheel. I am not to concerned about the
passenger's ease of entry/exit, I just hope that some future girl getting in and out will be very understanding.--I have
a little bit of safety, and a whole lot of crazy!
Bell M2 Helmet (12/18/02)
The M2 is one of Bell's most popular helmets. It has a larger eyeport that is perfect for those who wear glasses, or
those that just want a more open helmet. Snell SA2000 and SFI 31.2 certified.
Suspension
BMR Swaybars (6/17/01)
Original Swaybars
The original swaybars are hollow 30mm/19mm F/R, and the BMR ones are solid 32mm/21mm F/R. These swaybars come with polyurethane bushings which help firm up the feel as compared to the stock rubber bushings. After putting these on, I felt an immediate reduction in body roll. I will have more when to say when it is dry out and I get a really good feel for them. Well, they did make a big difference.
Comparison
BMR Strut Tower Brace (6/17/01)
This bar connects the mount for the right and left front strut mounts, which strengthens up the body/frame structure. Now, this mod. supposedly is hard to feel unless you are pushing the car to the limits on a track, but it is said to help cure creaks and rattles, or prevent them from appearing. When I put this on, I felt it after pulling out of my driveway on to the street. It made the car feel more solid up front, with much crisper turn-in, and improved steering response.
BMR Boxed Weld-In Subframe Connectors (11/18/01)
These connect the front subframe with the rear subframe. They were welded to the frame in the back, sandwiching the frame, and tied in with a bolt through the SFC, frame, and lower control arm. The front was then welded to the frame in the front. This made a very noticeable difference in the stiffness and handling of the car. I felt as much of a difference with this mod as I did when putting the sway bars on. Now I turn the wheel, and the car instantly reacts without delay. The car is really starting to handle now. I can't wait to go from my 50 series tires to 40 series. I would say that since a stock Z-28 with 245/50/16's can pull .86g's around the skidpad, that after I put the tires on, the car should be at .90+ g's.
BMR Lower Control Arms (6/7/02)
Well, the lower control arms were put onto reduce the wheel hop that was occurring under hard acceleration.
Between these and the torque arm, it seems that the wheel hop is gone. Before this the rear end would bounce off
the ground in 1st gear as the tires were spinning and fighting for traction. I opted for the polyurethane bushings
and grease fittings.
BMR Panhard Bar (6/7/02), Updated (2/21/03)
The adjustable panhard bar was put on to firm up the handling of the car in a fast sweeper style turn where the
stamped rod would flex under hard loading. Since putting this on, the car feels much more stable and predictable
when taking high-speed exit ramps. This also reduced the amount of fishtailing of the car under hard acceleration
in 1st and 2nd gears on dry pavement. I bought the adjustable one in case I decide to lower the car, I can
re-center the rear end with this. I opted for the polyurethane bushings and grease fittings, which turned out to be a bad
choice, as they blew out (ripped, cracked, fell out). I have since used QA1 rod ends which will not break and will
provide even better handling at the track, but will be a bit harsher and noiser on the street. Next will be to change the
lower control arms to rod ends!
BMR Torque Arm (6/15/02)
After already having the lower control arms installed, I put this on, and I definitely have not had any wheel hop
since then. The stock torque arm was stamped, and is known to absorb a lot of the power and torque of the
motor and has also been known to break from twisting by the torque generated by even the stock LS1 motor.
Under acceleration the car now feels PLANTED to the ground. It included a polyurethane mount to the tranny. I
did notice that the shifter now moves more when cruising due to the firmer mount, but it is not annoying, and I
was used to it the next day.
Bilstein Shocks (5/3/03)
All I can say is it took months for these to arrive, but they were definitely worth the wait. Will be tested extensively
at the track this weekend. The pictures below are of the rear shocks.
Transmission/Drivetrain
CAGS (3/31/01)
This handy device connects to the solenoid underneath the transmission and eliminates the annoying 1-4 upshift which occurs when starting from a stop under less than 25% throttle, between 15-20mph, and when the coolant temperature has reached at least 180degrees. This mod. is a must. Sometimes I would be forced to shift into 4th when not expecting it. It is pretty amazing how the car can pull 4th at these speeds and RPM's, but I prefer to pick when and which gear, and enjoy a 1-3-5 shift more than a 1-4-5.
Hurst Billet Plus Shifter (5/01)
This shifter is 10 times better than the stock shifter. It reduces the sloppy feel, while shortening and firming up the shifts. I have no problems on the 2-3 shift at all so far. I still have a hard time sometimes finding 3rd when coming from 5th or 6th, but it is better than the stock shifter was. Picking the Hurst was a tough decision as there is also the B&M and the PRO 5.0, but I trusted the Hurst name and had heard good results from others. Note, that this is not the same Hurst shifter that is offered as an option from the dealer. I understand that there is a BIG difference between the two. Also note that this shifter will make a little more noise than the stock one, but all the aftermarket shifters do.
Hurst Shift Knob (3/24/01)
Just looks cool, to go along with the Billet Plus. I put this on the day I picked the car up.
TA Performance Rear-end Girdle Cover (2/9/02)
I installed this in hopes of my rear-end holding up better than others that I have heard of. This cover is about 3/4" thick at the mounting flange, and is ribbed to reinforce the rear end, not just hold the oil in. It also has studs that preload the whole spider/diff assembly bearing caps, in order to keep it from shifting under load. It also holds more oil, and has a handy fill and drain plug. I hear that the stock rear only grenades after many clutch drops(50-100) with sticky tires. I plan on roadcourse, so I am not too worried. I know of somebody with stock rear, who drove has 10,500 miles at the track with 400+ RWHP and torque, and rear was fine.
Wheels/Tires
17" SLP ZR-1 Style Wheels (3/16/02)
I picked these up about a month after I got the car. I got a good deal from SLP at a swap meet in Englishtown, NJ. I am in no rush to put them on as I need tires for them(275/40/17). I would like to wait until I wear out the stock 16" tires. My main reason for these wheels is so that I can fit the Baer GT+ calipers and rotors.
BF Goodrich G-Force KDW Tires, 275/40/ZR17 (3/16/02)
After looking around quite a bit, these seemed to be the best tire for the money. Tirerack.com has it rated much better than stock tires, I think a 9 out of 10 for dry, and they also liked it much better than the OEM Vette tires, Goodyear F1's. Between adding about an 1-1/2" in width and a stiffer, lower profile sidewall, the handling of the car has greatly improved.
Tow Vehicle/Trailer
1997 GMC Sierra 2500 LB 4WD (10/03)
I got this in order to pull the car on a trailer, eliminating my worries of getting home from a far away track if I brake or
crash. A brake could be the slightest, or cheapest of parts, but when you are in the middle of nowhere on a Sunday
with a BMW club, it is unlikely you will be able to find a part. It is also easier then loading the car up to the brim.
Now I can put the track tires on and put it on the trailer. The truck is the 8,800 lb GVWR which gives it the heavy
duty suspension, oil cooler, tranny cooler, beefy 4L80E tranny, 8-lugs, 3.73, etc. I like driving the truck now, but the
mileage stinks....10-15mpg.
2004 Bri-Mar CH18 Trailer (1/04)
Being that the car is 16.2ft long, I figured it would be good to have an 18' deck which will allow room for toolboxes,
tire racks and possibly a different car in the future. Some of the nice features of this trailer are dual axle brakes, 5' long
diamond plated ramps, and removable fenders. I know have to make/buy a toolbox and tire rack.
