Homebrew Air/Fuel (AF) meter:
I got the diagram for this AF meter from the diy-eif
projects page. It is a National Semiconductor LM3914 LED driver circuit
that is adjusted to read the 0-1 VDC from the O2 sensor in the motor.
I used a blank plate from the console and mounted the LEDs and the circuit board
so that it looks 'stock'. I also added a switch so I can turn off the
meter when I wanted to (The constant fluctuation of the lights due to the Lambda
system can be annoying). I believe the Inteletronix (Cyberdyne) AF meter
works along the same principal, but I didn't have space to mount the gauge since
I have my stereo in the upper part of the dash. The gauge was not 'magic'
to build, but I do have access to soldering equipment, voltage supplies for
calibration, etc. at work. If you have space for a round gauge, and don't
have access to the required equipment, I would recommend buying a commercially
made gauge.
Swapping the speedometers was very straight forward; just remove and replace. The new speedo had the aux. speedo cable for the mileage counter box, which I didn't need, so I clipped it off. I also transferred the pick-up for the cruise control (two screws). To get the mileage of the new speedo the same as the old speedo, I partially removed the pin that holds the odometer numbers and rotated them to the actual mileage of the car.
Power Mirrors:
My car did not come with power mirrors from the factory. With the standard mirrors, you are always bumping them in the garage and adjusting the passenger side mirror while driving is just plain dangerous. I was at the junk yard and while I normally ignore the 6 cylinder 240 cars, I noticed that they all had power mirrors. The mirrors are easily removed with an allen wrench. The wiring harness is 'separate' from the main harness and is easily removed along with the switches in the parking brake console.
The Volvo mirror switches are mounted very low on the console and tend
to fill up with goo that always seems to fall between the seats.
Because I needed to drill holes anyway, I decided to mount the switches
in a more accessible part of the console. Another drawback to the
Volvo switches is they are sort of ugly little sticks. While looking
through some Saabs, I noticed that their switches are essentially the same
(can't use the Saab switch in a Volvo, they don't operate the mirrors correctly)
but they have nice looking boots. To spruce up the appearance of
the Volvo switches, I added the Saab boots to the Volvo switches using
a bit of sealant.
