So you want to do this to your old car too?


Lemme tell 'ya some of the stuff you'll need to get it done...

First I'll assume you're starting with a 84-87 corolla GTS and want to put a 4AGZE in it. Which is cool, because you have nice seats, fuel injection and possibly a LSD rearend with disk brakes.

You'll need to change out the engine ECU from the n/a (normally aspirated) to the supercharged ecu. The reasons you'll want to do this are because..

1) the s/c ecu, along with the triple-pickup distributor and knock sensor can
retard ignition timing automatically if pinging is detected.

2) The s/c ecu controls the magnetic clutch of the supercharger and the solenoids for
the supercharger vents and blowoff valve.

3) The 4agze ecu monitors exhaust gas temperature using a temperature sensor
in the EGR valve, the 4AGE does not. I think...


You may want to use an intercooler to chill your intake charge.

There is not enough room for an intercooler over the engine Levin-style, so front-mount would be the way to go.

The plumbing will vary depending on which car your 4AGZE came from. The MR2 engine's supercharger output pipe faces to the rear when the engine is in a Corolla. The pipe looks as if it could be turned around bolted on facing forward to point to your intercooler, but the ABV (Automatic Blowoff Valve) vents from this pipe and would require a long hose to connect it to the manifold if this part were turned around.

The Levin's supercharger output points upward and might be easier to work with to make the output point forward, possibly just a 90 degree elbow.

For plumbing the intercooler, I used mainly 2-inch copper pipe, copper elbows, silicon hose, two nitrile (rubber?) elbows with copper elbows shoved inside them so they don't collapse under vacuum, one MR2 intercooler pipe and one Saab L-pipe.

Napa had silicon hose, Granberry supply (in Phoenix) had silicon hose (even though they said they didn't on my first visit), Purosil is the manufacturer, they're on the net. Turbonetics supplied the Nitrile elbows.

Turbonetics


Unfortunately, there is not an easy way to get the pipes from the engine compartment to the front mounted intercooler. The radiator a/c condenser, front crossmember and the headlight motors are in the way. My solution was to mount a narrower radiator and a/c coil that leaves me about 4 inches of space on the intake side of the engine to run pipes through. I'm using a nice small but thick (it's gotta be three core) radiator and shroud from a Hyundai, with the electric fan from the a/c coil out of the same Hyundai pulling air through the radiator. I also have a fan pushing air through the intercooler. I think the a/c coil I'm using is from a '75 Toyota truck. It is not as wide as the original. Aluminum bars from the top radiator support down to the front crossmember support the intercooler.

I hope your car uses flat, ribbed accessory belts instead of v-belts. If your car uses v-belts, you will have to change out all of your accessories, alternator, power steering pump, a/c compressor... The 4AGZE-s supercharger is driven using a flat belt from the main pulley... You're stuck using that pulley, so all other belts must be flat too to work with that pulley. I have an alternator from a Camry (I think) and a junkyard Toyota a/c comressor of unknown origin that fits. The accessory brackets must all be 4AGZE brackets, because everything is moved farther forward than on the 4AGE because of the fat supercharger belt that is closest to the engine. I made my accessory mounting bracket holes into slots to move the accessories forward... Not really the best way to do it, but 4AGZE parts are pretty scarce around here...

The thermostat housing for the 4AGZE is not on the water pump as it is for most cars. It is normally bolted to the transmission when transverse mounted in the car. This won't work in the Corolla. The housing needs to be mounted somewhere where there's room. You'll need the 4age's water pipe from the back of the head to get hot water to the thermostat so that it will open. and run a large hose from the back of the water pump to the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing on my car is bolted to a bracket on top of the supercharger. I use 2 4ac stock lower radiator hoses to get water to the thermostat housing and one more to get to the bottom of the radiator.
Since you're changing the exhaust manifold, you'll also need the EGR pipe from a t-vis GTS to go from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve. It won't fit without a bit of bending, but it's the closest to the right shape that I've found. This is a MUST if you live anywhere that requires a smog test.

You'll have to fabricate a pipe to go from the AFM (Air Flow Meter) to the engine intake.


Just relax, There IS some GOOD news though...


Your existing throttle cable and even cruise control will work with the 4AGZE's linkage.

The engine bolts to the transmission without more than the usual amount of difficulty. ARRRGGGGG!!!

The hood will actually close. Juuuust barely though.

The exhaust manifold lines up nicely with the rest of your exhaust system.



...And lucky you! wasn't that easy! If you had started with an SR5 (like me), you'd need to do all that PLUS THE FOLLOWING.....



Install an airflow meter and air filter. I wouldn't spend money on any high-flowing fancy air filter, because your engine will get all the air it needs from the supercharger, regardless of the air filter. (in my opinion)

Use the AFM that works with your ECU, as they are different, the 4AGZE AFM electrical connector has an extra pin, and the resistance ranges are different.

To install the AFM and air filter, you won't be able to use the SR5 radiator overflow bottle, because the air filter mounts where the radiator bottle is. The GTS has a radiator overflow bottle that mounts next to the filter, but that then interferes with the windsheild washer reservoir. So, to install the AFM and filter, get a GTS windsheild washer reservoir, radiator overflow bottle and air filter.

Since the SR5 is not fuel injected, it doesn't have a high pressure fuel pump. You will have to install one. I've heard that the Corolla GTS fuel pump is too small to supply a 4AGZE with enough fuel. After playing with one and comparing it with a 280Z fuel pump, I'd prefer the GTS pump. It wins hands down in both the pressure and flow categories. To install a Corolla GTS pump, the fuel tank must be removed from the vehicle. The Celica GTS uses an external pump and is good for 250hp, so I am undecided about which pump to use...

I've installed the corolla GTS in-tank pump. It's a bolt-in swap. Compression fittings and adapters connect the steel fuel lines together. There is no rubber line on the high-pressure side of my fuel system. :) I have installed an oil pressure sending unit in the high-pressure side of the fuel system so that I can monitor fuel pressure with an ohmmeter while driving. Any drop in pressure at high boost will be seen and corected!

You will also need a GTS exhaust manifold.

Make sure you have a MR2 n/a or Corolla GTS flywheel. The SR5 flywheel won't work because it has only six bolts connecting it to the crankshaft. The 4AGZE has eight bolt holes. The s/c MR2 flywheel (224 mm) is too large to fit into the RWD t-50 transmission. A n/a MR2 or Corolla GTS has a 212 mm flywheel that fits. Don't forget a new pilot bearing too. ---More on Flywheels on Mac's site.---


Now, that's all well and good, but you still want more power? If you want to Twincharge the 4AGZE, here's all you have to do..

Obtain a turbo (that's usually the easy part)

Mine is a Garrett to-3 from a Ford (as described elsewhere on the site) It sits directly behind the supercharger, 1/4 inch below the intake manifold. From below, all you can see is the turbine inlet and outlet pipes which are 1/4 inch from the framerails and almost touching the steering linkage boot. The turbine exhaust elbow is 1/4 inch from the firewall. It's a tight fit. Any problem at all in that area, and the engine will have to be removed just to look at the turbo.

The bracket it sits on is a homemade 'L' that mounts with the transmission stiffening brackets. The bottom of the turbo is about level with the oil pan gasket. There is a turbo oil drain pipe welded into the oil pan.


Getting air to the turbo is the most important part of this project.


The OUTPUT of the supercharger blows into the INLET of the turbo. The supercharger output pipe was shortened about 3 inches and a small manifold was fabricated to bolt to the face of the turbo. This manifold is nothing more than 2 pieces of 3/16 plate steel with 1/8 thick, 1 inch wide steel bent into a sort of 'peanut' shape and welded together. There is a 2 1/8 exhaust pipe section to connect to the supercharger output, a 1 1/4 inch elbow to the auxilliary air system and a 1 3/4 inch hole for the turbo to breathe through.

The supercharger (with stock pulley) can move enough air for 140hp, but the turbo will want more, so the 1 1/4 inch auxilliary air system gets air from right under the throttle plate to give to the turbo. As described elsewhere on the site..

The Auxilliary air system consists of a hollow one inch spacer under the throttle plate that is connected to the turbo inlet manifold through a one-way check valve and some silicon hose. The check valve is there to prevent supercharger boost from returning to the throttle plate at the inlet to the supercharger and being lost.

The output of the turbo goes into a rubber-coated copper elbow which points it forward to the intercooler.

The cool pressurized air goes into the intake manifold at about where cylinder #3 is.
After the burn, air travels through a complete GTS exhaust manifold and then hangs a sharp left under the transmission. It is directed through the turbo and a 3 inch downpipe, then back under the transmission again to the catalytic convertor and the rest of the exhaust system.

Think it will work?

Twincharger@hotmail.com

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