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| PolishinA |
| Aluminum Polishing |
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| After a period of time clear coated aluminum will develop small white or gray spots that are caused by the clear coat becoming pitted either by road debris or simply old age. Once the clear coat becomes pitted it allows dirt, water and other harmful substances to build up beneath the clear coat and no matter how much you clean they will never come out, as a matter of fact, they will get worse as soap and water work their way under the clear coat and begin the oxidation process. Some people call this aluminum rust and basically that is what it is. When air and water remains in contact with aluminum over a period of time it will "rust" or oxidize. |
| In order to get this off you must remove the clear coat and get to the oxidation. |
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| Step 1- Get a quality gel type paint stripper and apply to the affected area |
| taking great care not to get any on any painted or Chrome surfaces |
| as it will quickly ruin the finish. |
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| Step 2-If the area you are preparing to polish has machined lined grooves |
| you can either choose to keep those lines and get a pretty good |
| shine or remove those lines by sanding and get a show quality |
| finish. If you choose to keep the lines go to step 4. If you decide |
| to commit to a little hard work for the better finish go to step 3. |
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| Step 3-Begin sanding the area with the machine lines or grooves with a |
| very abrasive sand paper. A good starting point is around 80 to 100 |
| grit paper. Sand until all the lines are gone. Then follow up by |
| sanding with a slightly finer sandpaper such as 400 grit. Then |
| following up sanding thoroughly each time and gradually stepping |
| up to a finer paper. For example you may choose to begin with the |
| 100 grit then move to a 400 grit then a 800 then up to 1000 grit. |
| Once you get into the 1000 grit stage you should have a pretty |
| smooth surface. Now begin wet sanding with 1000 grit. Apply |
| plenty of water to the surface as you sand to remove the fine dirt |
| from the surface and again step up gradually. Usually 3 to 4 steps |
| here is enough. For example: 1000 grit followed by 1200 then 1500 |
| then 2000 grit paper. Wet sand the surface till you think your arm |
| will fall off and then sand a little more. You should now have a |
| completely smooth, scratch free surface. |
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| Step 4-Get yourself a quality aluminum cleaning compound and clean the |
| aluminum. For best results go to your local Lowes or Home Depot |
| and purchase a stick of jewelers rouge. This product generally |
| comes in a solid stick and is applied by melting it into a buffing |
| wheel. Do not use a high speed buffer or a dremel tool as it will |
| burn the rouge and leave marks in your aluminum. It is best applied |
| with a variable speed drill and a small buffing pad. Next get a |
| quality aluminum polish such as Blue Magic or Mothers. Any quality |
| polish with a slight abrasive will do. Buff and polish the area again |
| until you feel that your arm will fall off. Then follow up with a good |
| brightner/protectant. The finished product should be a glassy smooth |
| finish with a chrome like shine. |
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| Step 5-Now that you have invested all this time in polishing your aluminum |
| you must take great care to keep it looking good. Eagle One makes |
| a product called Never Dull that comes in a pre-soaked cotton wad. |
| It is very important that you keep the un-coated aluminum clean and |
| protected from the elements. To protect the un-coated aluminum you |
| can apply a generous coat of high quality carnuba wax such as |
| Liquid Glass. Any quality wax will do as long as it contains no |
| abrasives but I have found that a carnuba wax is best. |
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