POPOVERS
 January 3, 1999

Popovers are an egg based bread product that are mostly hollow.  They are usually baked in muffin or custard pan.  As the mixture cooks, they expand, and pop beyond the limits of the pan.  The end result looks something like a chef's hat.

When I lived in the Northeast United States I made popovers with all purpose flour.  I had no brand loyalty, I bought whatever brand of flour was cheaper.  Recently I moved to the Southern United States.  My popovers stopped popping.  I couldn't figure out what was wrong.  I even had the temperature in my oven tested, but it was fine.  I tried asking some of my neighbors for advice, but they had no idea what I was talking about.  Apparently popovers are not well known in this region.

I looked in several different recipe books, but they all gave almost exactly the same recipe, which I too will duplicate.  None of them offered any troubleshooting suggestions.   Then one day, the answer was found in a local cookbook with a recipe for biscuits.

For those of you unfamiliar with Southern Cooking,  biscuits are the most commonly baked bread product.   Many of the all purpose flours that are sold in North Carolina, have a message on the bag "Better for Biscuits," a marketing ploy I quickly discounted.  Perhaps I should of paid more attention.  To make a good light fluffy biscuit you need a flour with a low protein content.  All purpose flour in the Southern United States apparently has less protein than all purpose flour in the Northern United States.  I don't know how this compares the rest of the country or the rest of the world.

And as you may of guessed, popovers and other egg based bread products, need a high protein flour in order to rise properly.  Bread flour, has a high protein content.  I know Pillsbury and Gold Medal both make a flour which is marketed for bread machines and the home bread maker.   It's actually a very simple recipe, just make sure you choose the right type of type of flour.


Have all the ingredients at room temperature before mixing.  Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.   This recipe requires that you preheat the oven,  regardless of what you may do with other recipes.  If you do not preheat the oven they will not pop properly.

Whisk together the eggs, milk, and oil.  Add the salt.   Then mix in the flour until blended.  A few small lumps may remain.

Fill each muffin/custard cup 2/3 to 3/4 full.  Remember, they pop, so do not fill to the top.  If you have any unfilled muffin cups, fill them halfway with water.  This will keep the pan from overheating and burning the other popovers.

Place the pan in the center rack of the oven and raise the heat to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.  You did remember to preheat, right?  This sudden rise in temperature is what helps them pop.

Bake for 15 minutes and then reduce the heat to 350 degrees and bake for 15 more minutes.  RESIST the urge to open the oven door and check on them.  They will probably sink if you do so.  Check on them after 15 minutes.  They should be slightly brown.  If not cook for an additional 5 minutes.

Serve immediately.  Or for extra crispiness.  Remove the popovers from the pan and puncture the sides to let the steam escape.  Place them on a cookie sheet and return to the turned off oven for up to 30 minutes.

Makes 12 servings, Per serving:


Cheese Popovers
Use two ounces of cream cheese or soft goat cheese.   Cut into small cubes, one for each popover.  Prepare batter as above.  Fill each cup about 1/3 full.  Place one cube in each popover.  Cover with the remaining batter.  Bake as above.


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