To Handfeed or Not

Shannon Barksdale -- sbarksdale@wanweb.net

First off let me say that handfeeding is a HUGE commitment of time and effort and is not just something that you should up and decide to do one day when your babies have already hatched. This is something that should be planned and researched well before then, preferably before you give them a nest box, but at least as soon as that first egg is hatched.

You need to ask yourself several questions:

1. Am I prepared to do the research necessary to make sure I do this right and don't harm or kill the babies?

2. Am I prepared to plan all other aspects of my life around these babies for the duration of the time I'm feeding (this could be up to 3 months before the babies are fully weaned)?

3. Am I prepared to spend the necessary money to set up a brooder for the babies?

4. Why do I want to handfeed my babies? (Hopefully the answer is so you produce friendlier babies, not just because you think it would be fun.)

Ok, having answered yes to all those questions, now the hard part begins...

Research:
Look for books on handfeeding. Talk to breeders and preferably find one in your area willing to show you how to handfeed properly. Join an appropriate mailing list for advice. Get to know your vet who is preferably knowledgeable in avian medicine. (If no vet is available, become better friends with the breeder mentioned earlier.)

Preparation:
You need to have the following things on hand BEFORE handfeeding begins:

Syringes -- I use 5cc ones if I pull the babies older than 10 days, if younger than that eyedroppers. Some people prefer to use a spoon for handfeeding but this method is less accurate (you don't know how much the baby eats) and often messier.
Eyedroppers -- in case you have to feed really young chicks
Formula -- I use Hagen Tropican with good results. If feeding tiels, I do not use Pretty Bird because I feel it has too much vitamin D3.
Pedialyte or Infalyte (preferable) -- to treat and/or prevent dehydration
Baby food -- gets mixed with formula, also applesauce is used to treat a slow crop
Apple juice -- also used to treat a slow crop
Cotton balls and q-tips -- for cleaning up babies after they eat
Thermometer -- used for making sure the formula is the right temperature. Make sure it is easy to read.
Paper towels -- you'll go through a lot of them. I line the brooder with them, wipe my hands on them, sit the babies on them while I feed them, etc.
Anti-bacterial soap -- use before handling or feeding the babies (on yourself, not the birds)
Disinfectant -- to sterilize the syringes after use
Brooder -- this can be anything from a heating pad, towels, and a rubbermaid container to a really expensive commercial one.
A device for measuring temperature (thermometer) and humidity (hygrometer) in the brooder
A gram scale -- preferably digital for weighing babies

Time commitement/scheduling:
Depending on how early you pull the babies (I pull mine just before the eyes open at about 10-12 days) you could be feeding as frequently as every 3 hours. A rough schedule looks something like this, but is really determined by the chicks and how fast the crop empties.

1-2 weeks -- every 2-4 hours
2-3 weeks -- every 3-5 hours
3-4 weeks -- every 4-6 hours (they can start going one eight hour period at night at 3 weeks), at this age start introducing "real" food
4-5 weeks -- every 5-7 hours
5 weeks to weaning -- by this point you're down to about 4 times a day (every 6 hours). Gradually start increasing the time between feedings down to 3 times, then 2, etc. It is important to keep a close eye on the babies' weight at this time. They will lose weight since they're eating less and starting to fledge (fly). As they start eating more real food then you can start increasing times between feedings and feed less per feeding.

If you work full time, you have two choices:
1. You can get permission to bring the babies to work so you can feed them there.
2. Or you can feed them just before leaving for work, as soon as you get home, and follow the appropriate schedule during the night.

It takes roughly 1/2 hour to feed the babies per feeding, but will vary depending on the size of the clutch and how much you have to chase them around to get them to eat. You also need to spend time with them outside of feeding times--playing with and sociallizing the babies or it defeats the purpose of handfeeding in the first place.

If you have read this and decided that you don't have the time to commit to handfeeding then you do have another option. You can socialize the babies out of the box by taking them out for 20-30 minutes a day and playing with them to get them used to human contact. They won't be quite as friendly as handfeds but they will be friendlier than parent raised.

Good luck ;)

-- Shannon Barksdale -- sbarksdale@wanweb.net --

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Revised: October 10, 1999

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