| Minimising Cage Odors | Male or Female | Where to get the Mouse from | Handling Mice | Taming Mice |
What to Look for in Pet Store Mice:
A long, sleek, slim (not skinny) body, with a smooth, straight tail, bright eyes, open, clear ears, long, healthy vibrissae (whiskers), and symmetry of the head and body.
The ability to stretch is important. The mice that you choose should be willing and able to stretch up onto their toes to reach a ledge, the wheel, etc. If they appear hunched and do not stretch even when they are walking around, avoid those mice as they are most likely sickly.
Do the mice appear to be happy, energetic, friendly, and charismatic? They should not bite or leap out of your hand when you are holding them. Keep in mind that it is normal for pet store mice to run away from your hand if they do not know you. However, they should NOT bite you if you pick them up by the base of the tail, or if you corner them and scoop them up. Avoid biters.
Inspect the ears inside and out. If the mouse has ripped, bitten, crusty, or very red ears, avoid that mouse. Rips and bites area telltale sign that that mouse has been involved in a fight. This could mean that the mouse in question is very aggressive.
NO Sniffling, Sneezing, Coughing, Raspy Breathing, or Laboured Breathing: Hold the mouse to your ear. If you hear a wet sneezy sound, a cough, rasp, wheeze, etc., you should avoid that mouse. If the mouse is making this sound, avoid ALL of the mice in that tank. Mycoplasmosis is common in pet store mice. Even though the individual you choose is not showing any symptoms at that time, it may develop symptoms later on. Mycoplasmosis is very contagious from mouse to mouse, hence the reason to avoid all other mice in that tank. There are always risks with purchasing mice from pet stores instead of breeders. Muffled vibrations are very common in healthy mice. If you hear these, do not be alarmed.
Look at the conditions in which the mice are being kept. This will give you a good idea as to the quality of the animals. The cleanliness of the cage can tell a lot as to how the mice are kept, and what condition they are currently in. Bedding is probably the most important factor in choosing a mouse from a pet store. If the mice are being kept in pine or cedar bedding, regardless of what the pet store workers tell you, the mice are at risk for liver disease, respiratory failure (including mycoplasmosis), skin irritation, etc. Do not choose mice from pet store that uses cedar or non-kiln dried pine.
Look under the fur by gently brushing it backward with your fingertips. Look carefully at the skin below. If you see any scabs, crust, or open wounds, do not choose that animal
Overall, the most questions that I get pertain to people with smelly mice. While there is no sure fired way to get rid of the smell 100%, there are many ways to keep the odors down considerably.
The Culprit
Male fancy mice are the primary culprits of cage odors. Female mice still produce odors, just as the males do, but their scent is not as strong, nor as offensive. Male mice have very strong urine that is oily and sticks to surfaces. When fancies move around, they leave an oily trail wherever they go. This trail acts as not only a territorial marking, but helps them to attract a mate. Female fancy mice tend to smell better than males, as they do not normally mark and do not produce the same oily urine as the bucks. Alpha females may mark when in groups with subordinate females.
How to Minimize Odors
Aromatic beddings are not the way to get rid of mouse odors. Such wooden beddings are dangerous to mice, humans, and other household pets when inhaled, and frequently when they come in contact with skin. Wooden beddings are very irritating to the touch and many people are allergic to cedar and pine beddings to begin with. Paper-based, cellulose bedding is the best bedding to use to control odors and to keep your animals healthy and sanitary. Products such as Carefresh and other paper product beddings control odors better and are highly absorbant.
Using an absorbant bedding does not mean that you only have to clean cages every once every 2-3 weeks. Every mouse cage should be cleaned every 3-5 days to maintain a healthy environment for the mice. Improperly or uncleaned cages can lead to health problems such as mycoplasmosis, increased ammonia vapors in the cage air, skin and coat problems, allergies, etc.
The cages must be dissinfected at every cleaning. There are special products (Kencare, etc.) out on the market that claim to be safer to use for small mammal caging systems. However, I have found that such cleansers do not get the cages as clean and can be more expensive than your basic bleach and detergent soap. I believe that detergent soap is a must for cleaning cages. Some oil stains are very difficult to remove, and a soap that cuts grease and oils is the only way to remove the odors 100%.
The Mice STILL Stink
As in the case with many mice, the cage will continue to smell awful even after the most stringent cleaning regimen. Some make the mistake of cleaning the cages of male mice more often when they find that the odor does not diminish, and may actually increase after a good cleaning. In many cases the males only increase their marking power after a cleaning, as their cleaned cage is now neutral.
- Avoiding Re-marking: I have found that removing the bedding in the corners of the cage every 2-3 days can help reduce the odor greatly. Mice mark the boundaries of their territory often. In a captive environment, this scent marking usually occurs in the corners. Simply scoup out the litter in the corners and replace it with fresh bedding. This cuts down the amount of marking that takes place.
Wiping down the inside aquariums walls with hot water and a rag will also help to remove urine streaks and feces that have become stuck to the glass.
- Chlorophyll: Instead of using this in the bedding, I use human consumption quality dietary chlorophyll concentrated drops in the mouse water bottles. Chlorophyll is very good for mice, and is a natural deodorizer. When ingested via water by humans, it deodorizes ones breath and gas.
Chlorophyll is the natural dye found in green plants; it is what makes plants green. It has been given a bad wrap after being used in pine bedding to supposedly help to keep odors down. When taken orally, it adds vitamins and minerals to the mouses' diets.
Dosage Information:
Up to 15 drops per every 6 oz. of water, or as directed on the label: To get the proper dosage, just cut out 1/3 of the human dosage suggested.
Odor Eaters
- Glade Plug-InsŪ: When you have company over, these can be a livesaver. Most Glade scents will cover up mouser odor very effectively. Keep in mind that you can no longer strongly detect any odor when smelled continuously for more than 60 seconds. With this in mind, you may not be smelling anything, but someone else may get a whiff of something new and unpleasant when they enter the mouse room.
- No-ScentsŪ: I was asked to test this product by a fellow mouse person. I was very impressed with the initial results after using this product for approximately 3 days. However, in the following days, I noticed that the No-ScentsŪ, sodium stearate/ethanol odor eating cake turned brown and stopped absorbing the odors in the room. I was also disappointed with the fact that it did virtually nothing for the odors in larger rooms. My mouse room is about 14'x13', and it absorbed odors very minimally at the peak of its performance days. I also found that the cake did not truly abrsob the odors, rather, it collected dust and filled the room with a semi-fruity scent that covered up the mouse odors.
On the other hand, this product is very safe, and it did not make anyone sneeze, become lightheaded, etc. from inhaling its scent. Overall, this product is very safe to use in closed rooms and close to cages.
Male and female mice are both perfectly suitable for keeping as pets. There are certain differences between the two sexes, which you should consider before actually getting a mouse. Otherwise the decision is totally up to you. Mice are very social animals, so if you do get a single mouse, you should interact with it a lot. This means each and every day
The males, also called bucks, have a distinct smell. However, the smell isn't all that bad, especially if you have only one buck. You do get used to it after a while. Regular cleaning of the cage will keep the odor at bay. If you clean too often, you will only make the smell worse with bucks, as the little fellow will hurry up and mark his territory with his wonderful smells again.
It is possible to get a male mouse castrated, which makes it able to live with females or other castrated males. Neutered males smell much less than intact ones and they can be even calmer. However, bear in mind that all kinds of operations are risky for such a small animal as a mouse. If you do have a good vet, who will use gas anesthesia and you can afford the operation and can take a day off to see everything goes fine after the operation, neutering is one option you have. Neutered males cannot be entered in standard classes in shows - pet classes are open for them.
There may be difficulties with introducing a new mouse in an established group of females, as the older ones tend to defend their territory. This can be rather aggressive even. Let the mice to meet each others on a neutral ground, a larger show box (plastic tank) will do fine. In the mean time clean the group's cage / tank thoroughly, including all the toys, nests, food bowls and water bottle. Change used cardboard boxes and tubes for new ones. Mice recognize their own territories by the smell, so they won't be as eager to chase the newcomer out if the cage does not smell familiar. It is also a good idea to give the mice something very tasty to eat, so they won't necessarily bother fighting each other with all the goodies around. There can be some quarrel when the group reestablishes their "pecking order", but usually everything goes fine.
First of all, think over if you would like a "purely" pet mouse, or possibly a mouse to attend shows with. As a pet and in pet classes it does not make any difference if the mouse is of Pet (American, Swedish.. the name varies)- or English type. In standard classes the mouse should be as close to the standard both when it comes to the coat, color, markings, type and size. Usually the required type is English
The best way of obtaining a standard class show mouse is from a reputable mouse breeder. Mouse clubs usually list breeders and you can contact them for reference. With breeders you will get information on the mouse's background and family, many will provide you with a pedigree. In some countries a mouse has to be registered in order for you to show it and breeders will have the mice ready and registered. Good breeders are also able to help you with all kinds of questions regarding mouse keeping
Many breeders have excellent and fun looking pet mice as well, as "pet mice" (as opposed to mice who can take part in standard classes!) are always been born in litters. Some breeders also will let you have a joint ownership or similar to offer. Sometimes even very good show mice, usually bucks, are rehomed for responsible mouse owners for free.
When you get a mouse from a breeder, you will know the exact time of birth and you are able to avoid many unpleasant surprises which may happen with a pet shop. A breeder will tell you the mouse's sex for you, she will not sell you a male - female couple instead of two females, or a female that is already pregnant. To put it short: it pays to use the service of a breeder!
Last but not least: there are all kinds of breeders around. Some are responsible and have a good reputation. Others could be better classed as mouse millers. Ask around for references, especially clubs. If possible, go and visit the breeder and keep your eyes open!
Mice are ready for new homes at one month of age. You should not sell nor buy mice younger than this. Mice who are old enough to be sold already have the looks of a young adult. They don't look like babies with large heads and skinny legs. You should be able to determine the sex quite easily; buck will have their testicles showing, females do not. Females have a short distance between the anus and the urethra and you may be able to spot two rows of teats on both sides of the belly. Young males can lift their testicles back up so you can't see them, if they get scared, but you will still be able to determine a male from a female by the longer distance between the anus and the urethra.
When in a shop, it is best to ask when the babies were born. They should know this fact, at least roughly. Do not buy too young a mouse! If there were males and females housed in the same tank, be prepared for babies if you decide to get females. Even though it is possible that a female mouse gets pregnant at one month of age, she is not ready for pregnancy until much older, 3-4 months old.
Proper way to pick up a mouse is by picking it up by the root of the tail, not by the tail itself. Never carry a mouse around by the tail. Pick it up and put it on your palm. Even a mouse that runs away from your hand in the cage usually will sit very trustingly on your hand. If you are uncertain about your mouse's reaction, do hold it very gently by the root of the tail while the mouse is sitting on your hand.
Never squeeze a mouse, it is so lightly built it will get broken. No dot let young children handle mice. Children do not know their own strengths and can accidentally kill a mouse by squeezing. I wouldn't let a child under the age of six to handle a mouse myself, but I am pretty tight with mouse matters. Mice will bite in self defense if you hurt them. However, tame mice will not bite. When your mouse gets to know you, it will love to have you scratch gently behind its ears and being caresses by you. Mice are so small they don't play with you, but on you. However, mice are dun to interact with. You can teach a mouse its name and even teach it small tricks like standing up or climbing up a rope with treats. Mice love to run on you and around on the floor.
Before letting your mouse out of the cage, do make sure that the environment is safe for mice. The mouse must not get into hiding behind or under furniture or in cracks in the walls or floor. Go around the room with your eyes in the mouse level to see if there are any small cracks you don't usually notice from your eye level. Electric wires should be lifter up to prevent mice chewing them. What is very important - make sure that no-one steps on the poor mouse or kill it by trapping it with a closing door!!!!
Here are some easy steps on taming your mice:
Leave your mouse alone in their cage for the first day, so that the get used to their new environment, and so they can calm down after the ride home.
On the second day, leave your hand in the cage until your mouse comes over to sniff it.
When it does sniff your hand, don't move it, let your mouse smell it to it's hearts content. Take your hand out when it gets tired.
On day 3, you can pick up your mouse. Be sure to pet it and make the experience fun. It is best to do this in the late evening, when your mouse is waking up from a good day's rest.
The next thing to do is to take your mouse out of the cage and let it climb on you.
Keep trying the steps until your mouse is as tame as you want it, but remember - it takes time!