Panama

I've been to Panama on two occassions, but I spent ten years there. That's because I dated a panamanian for ten years during my formative surfing days in Miami, Fla. She was the one who had to deal with my obsession that is so many girlfriends dread. Much of her family was still living in Panama, and therefore, I got to see it through local eyes. I couldn't imagine seeing it any other way... you'd probably wind up in jail without local knowledge. Panama is a wonderful country. In fact, I found it far more beautiful than Costa Rica. Places like Chiriqui, El Valle, Isla Santa Catalina, and Isla Grande are some of the most incredible places I've been. There are even some off shore islands, Contadora being one, that rival any island in the Pacific. The surf in Panama can be world class, however, it is inconsistent. The best surf I encountered was at the well known Santa Catalina. Getting there is a chore. I surfed Santa Catalina on my second trip with my college friend, Andy. We were given the keys to my girlfriend's father's SUV and told to meet up with our "escort" to the surf. After hours of truly off-road driving, we arrived at SC. Her father had arranged for us to stay at the local cottages. They turned out to be the most discusting rooms I've ever stayed in. I was convinced that the mattress and pillow were used as a flotation device at one point. It took a few sleeping pills to help me fall asleep. We woke to a 4-6 foot swell. There where only two other surfers on the premises, and luckily they where not locals. The wave breaks over a really shallow reef. The most difficult thing about the break is figuring out the tides. The tidal variation is 17 feet. That's about two to three hundred yards from low tide to high tide. The largest tidal variation I've ever surfed. As the tide dropped, the adrenaline, and waves, pumped. My friend wasn't keen on getting raked across the reef, so he got out and took some pictures. To my surprise he got one of me deep behind the curtain... thanks Andy. Soon after that wave, I was bounced off the reef and my neoprine shirt was ripped off my body. I knew, at that point, it was time to get out. The wonderful thing is that I can still picture every moment of that tube today, almost ten years later. And, yes, I did make it out! On the way back to Panama City, we were stopped by cops on five occassions. Luckily my girlfriend's father was in the government. We flashed his ID and the cops let us go. I couldn't imagine what would have happened to us gringos if we hadn't had that ID. Bottom line is Panama is an awesome place for a surf or eco trip. Furthermore, not as many people venture into Panama due to it's reputation. If you have any desire... go for it!