COSTUME JEWELRY: A PRIMER

WHAT IS COSTUME JEWELRY? WHAT MAKES IT VALUABLE?


What is Costume Jewelry?

Costume jewelry is defined as any item of human adornment which is not made of gold and/or precious stones. Obviously, this definition covers a lot of territory. In age, costume jewelry extends from ancient beads, Egyptian, Etruscan, and Chinese antiqiuieries through Victorian, Edwardian, Art Noveau, Art Deco and Arts and Crafts, right up to contemporary jewelry being made today. Costume Jewelry includes the broad spectrum of beads, sterling, semi-precious stones, base metals and even plastics, as interpreted all over the world. While the sparkling rhinestones immediately come to mind, it is important to remember that the world of costume jewelry includes: beads in a multitude of materials; silver as beautifully wrought by American Indians, Mexicans, Scandinavians, and the disparate Asian craftsmen of Thailand, China and India; and playful plastics, including bakelite and lucite.

What makes Costume Jewelry Valuable?

The value of any piece of Costume jewelry depends upon several factors. Age is an important factor, as is rarity. One marvels still at the ageless appeal of the jewels buried in King Tuts tomb, and the intricacy of a rare, hand wrought Castellani jewel from the 1700's. Workmanship and the quality of the materials used can determine the market price of a piece of jewelry. The unique design in the purest silver, incorporating the best of semi precious stones, has escalated the value of many examples of Mexican Sterling. Likewise, the design and detail of many pieces of signed costume jewelry, including Trifari, and Chanel, owe as much of their value to their uniqueness as well as their name. Condition is an important factor. Although minor wear and damage can sometimes be repaired, the overall condition of a piece of jewelry will have some bearing on its value. Last but not least, the market in Costume Jewelry is extremely subject to the vaguries of trends, and personal taste. As fashions change, so too, certain kinds of costume jewelry enjoy select favor. Currently, Bakelite is enjoying a popular revival, Jelly Bellies are the rage, and Miriam Haskells are to die for, ...but remember that only five years ago, Mexican Sterling, even pieces signed by William Spratling, were going begging. Today, you can purchase a Siamese Sterling Nielho pin for a modest price, by tomorrow the price may have gone through the roof.